Beachcomber: Fiji's party island?

You can walk around Beachcomber island in ten minutes, it's that small.

Pulling up to it on the Yasawa flyer it looks every inch the image of the deserted island that you conjure up when you think of Fiji. Beachcomber's got a reputation for being the party island of the Yasawa's, and yes, we did spend the majority of our three days intoxicated. But beyond that, Beachcomber has got this paradise thing down to a tee and we absolutely loved it.

Accommodation
The words '90-bed dorm' didn't fill us with much confidence when it came to the sleeping arrangements on Beachcomber. 90 girls, one room, no walls... Yeah, it sounded like hell. So, the fact that it was actually really not that bad at all, was a really pleasant surprise. Inconsiderate girls getting back drunk and shouting at each other only added to the experience.

We slept well, but then the dorm wasn't even half full; in fact there were probably only about 20 of us in there due to it being off-season. I don't really want to think about what it would be like if it was full...

Food
The best thing about food on Beachcomber was the fish. Every lunch and dinner offered a fish dish, a meat dish and something for the vegetarians. The salad was fresh, the fruit was constantly topped up and there was chocolate cake on night two. We ate well for the first time in a while and it was awesome.
Beachcomber prides itself on it's party atmosphere (and it definitely has quite a reputation to live up to.)

DRINKKSSSS

There are three happy hours a day. There are games in the evening. The music pumps until the early hours. People dance on the beach and on the tables. They skinny dip and they drink all day long. If you want to party, or at least meet like-minded people that are up for a laugh and a drinking game and chats until the early hours, here's the island to visit.

Activities 
The island might be tiny, but there is plenty to do on Beachcomber (drinking and sunbathing aside) and the staff are keen to get everyone involved in all of the free activities.
Fish feeding happens twice a day and it is a brilliant experience. Thousands of fish swarm to the boat as we pull up to the coral 5 minutes out to sea. We fed them bread and they took it out of our hands - very cool.

There's coral viewing too, and you can go and see the turtles which are kept on the other side of the island. Basket weaving, talks about the wildlife, classes on how to tie your sari; Beachcomber has got it all.

Day trips are also widely available form here, both South Sea Island and Castaway are nearby and you can jump on a day cruise.

I'd recommend Beachcomber if you are up for a good time and want to meet people that are keen to do the same. It's a tiny island with a lot going for it (and the really great cocktails certainly help.)

L, L & A. x

Swimming with reef sharks in Wayalailai, Fiji.

Wayalailai Ecohaven resort was second island we visited on our tour of paradise. Located slap-bang in the middle of the Yasawa Island group, it's famed for it's breath-taking viewpoint and authentic Fijian hospitality.
From the sea it's far greener than Barefoot, with steep cliffs rising high above the huts that make up the resort. The water is rougher, and the coral slightly further out to sea, but it's worth donning a snorkel and braving the swim; the schools of fish were huge.

Accomodation 
We stayed in a 5 bed dorm, which was big and comfortable, but had a thatched roof which attracted the biggest spiders I've ever seen. We slept under mosquito nights terrified of bed bugs and other creepy crawlies. The water is a little hit and miss on Wayalailai, the tanks need to be changed every few hours so you often find yourself waiting for showers.

Eating
We were pretty spoilt on Barefoot when it came to food: three course meals and great gluten-free options. Wayalailai was a little lacking when it came to food, and I'm not sure any of us really ate much for the three days we were there. Cereal and fruit for breakfast, a buffet at lunch which was replicated for the evening buffet. Salad, vegetables and a meat dish; no gluten free or veggie options, so make sure if you choose to stay here you bring snacks! There's no happy hour which was a shame, but the drinks behind the bar were cheap and they did make a good G&T.

Activities 
The activities were what really made our experience on Wayalailai. There was loads to do, more than either of the other islands that we visited. On the first day we made our own seashell bracelets down on the beach with some local women from the village.

We then hiked up to the viewpoint which was nothing short of breathtaking. The walk took about an hour and we sweated more than we thought humanly possible, but it was fantastic and worth every step.

On Sunday everyone was invited to dress up nice and visit the church in the village. It was a great experience (if a little long) and the singing was exceptional, real gospel.

On the morning of our final day we went snorkelling with reef sharks. It was one of the best things I did during my whole three month adventure. At one point there were 6 or 7 sharks circling underneath me, and although it was terrifying, it was just incredible.

We had an interesting few days on the island. The activities were great, and we did some amazing things, however the food and accommodation let Wayalailai down. If you're okay with roughing it a little bit, then you'll like it here; it's far more authentic than the other islands, especially with the village nearby. 

On to the next... L, L and A. x

Glacier hunting in Franz Josef & Fox Glacier, South Island, New Zealand

The west coast of New Zealand is the wettest part of the country - apart from the Sounds in the Fjordland - and Franz Josef is usually washed with 8 metres of rain a year. We were in the small town for 4 days, due to a slight frustration with the Nakedbus' schedule, and definitely saw our fair share of weather. 

Here's how to see it:

Walking.

You can no longer walk directly onto the glacier at Franz Josef, but you can get pretty close. 

Most people opt to explore the ice via helicopter; you fly up and land on the ice then, kitted out with boots and thermals, can explore the ice tunnels and formations that shape the landscape. The ice explorer trip costs $315, so is pretty steep, and unless you have a completely clear day, it's hard to say if it's worth it. We couldn't have done the flight if we'd wanted to because of the weather so preceded to explore the surroundings on foot. 

There's a shuttle from town to the glacier footpaths which is $12.50, but the walk isn't long - about 20-30mins - so it's your call. 

Franz Josef glacier still looks pretty spectacular from 200 metres away, and the walk to access it is stunning. The varied scenery, from baron rocks to sheet ice to lush bush and abundant waterfalls, feels otherworldly at times. 

Walking to the glacier 

It's worth visiting Peters Pool while you're there too, on a clear day the water looks amazing with the reflection of the mountains in the background.

Don't miss out on a visit to Fox Glacier. It's about a half hour drive from Franz, so you'll need a car to get there and around, or could in high season book onto a tour.

Mirror image in Matherson

 Lake Matherson is one of the most stunning places we have visited. The water was so still that you could see the perfect reflection of the mountains and the foliage around it.

A visit to the beach on a clearer/warmer/generally better day is also worth it. The beach is littered with drift wood which resembles the elephant graveyard scene in Lion King. 

The final stop in Fox Glacier is the glacier itself. Similarly to Franz Josef, you can no longer walk on the ice. Again though, the view point is worth the hike. 

Sleeping.

Stay at Sir Cedric's Chateau Franz. We paid $25 a night for a four bed dorm room with en-suite shower, free wifi, free breakfast, free nightly vegetable soup (a huge vat is cooked fresh everyday at 6pm and served with an assortment of breads, it does resemble Maggi's 2-minute noodles every so slightly, but it's a free meal which is exactly what skint backpackers are after.) Location wise the Chateau is bang on and the staff were brilliant, making sure you take advantage of the free popcorn and huge DVD room and the lazy spa which is open til 9pm. Benjamin, the owners son, was amazing, making us feel right at home and going out of his way to make the stay perfect.

Eating.

Grab dinner at Eighty-Eight, the Asian fusion restaurant in town. We got a free drink each as Chateau residents and the food was great. 

I had gurnard which was catch of the day and the girls opted for Thai green curry ($15-$25). For a quick lunch or snack to the Picnics, the bakery on the main road. 

The pie and pasty selection is amazing and the donuts are famous for all the right reasons. Saturday is donut day if you're a fan, and the number of flavours on offer triples for one day only. Full of beans is another good breakfast or lunch spot, and the coffee is pretty great too. Burgers are around 12 bucks, there's a good sandwich and cake selection or you can grab soup of the day for $8. 

Drinking.

Franz Josef is tiny. The town is a single road of souvenir shops and restaurants, with one Four Square and a petrol station. So don't come here and expect mental partying until 4am. That said, the locals do give it a good go and there are a couple of places if you fancy a bevvy or 6. Blue ice is the main bar, and it was where we ended up (driven via hummerzine) on Halloween. 

The drinks were cheap, the music was surprisingly decent and the bar shows all the big sports games too. Monsoon is the other bar, frequented by locals but also welcoming travellers. Chat to the staff at the hostel about offers. The nearest liquor store is in Haast, so you'll be drinking beer and wine while you're here unless you have a car to make the trip, but the supermarket's reasonable. 

Rainy days.

We bought tickets to the Kiwi experience on bookme (best site ever!) for $17 and it was a bit of a disappointment. If I'd paid full price I'd've been pretty annoyed (it's normally $35!) there's a room full of kiwi enclosures but viewing is limited and it depends on the time of day whether you are lucky enough to see on. We did, but it was very dark so we're not actually entirely sure what we were looking at. We did meet a taxidermy goat though. 

Until Wanaka,

L, L & A. Xx 

Camel safari in Jaisalmer.

If you're not careful you'll find yourself falling in love with Jaisalmer, and end up staying far longer than you planned. Rising from the surrounding desert like a sandcastle, Jaisalmer Fort sits at the centre of the city and it's quite simply, beautiful.

Chai with a view.

The surrounding streets are decorated with havelis, and everywhere you look there are stunning views of the desert stretching as far as the eye can see. It's quieter here; calmer, more laid back. Drink it in, because it's kind of addictive.

Do:

- Stay in the fort.

This is the only living fort in the country so seize the opportunity to stay inside. We stayed at Desert boys guesthouse (1,400rps with free pick-up) and were l so glad we did. A maze of stairways leading to terraces and rooms, the views were spectacular. 

Sunrise on the terrace at Desert Boys 

The restaurant is good too, and it also serves beer. Chai was offered left right and centre and although the wifi was weak, I'd recommend paying a little more for the experience. 

- Ride a camel.

Everyone will offer you a camel safari in Jaisalmer: your tuc tuc driver, the hotel porter, the fruit vendor on the roadside. Shop around, and make sure you know what you want to get out of the tour. There's touristy options which are cheaper, or you can pay a little more for a more authentic 'off the beaten track' experience.

Me and my ride.

We did a whole days riding which in hingsight was a little long. However, cooking lunch over a fire under a tree in the middle of a desert was a pretty cool experience. Our desert guide, Kelu, let Alice and I get involved in making fresh pakora, vegetable curry and chapatis. 

Camping under the stars was definitely an experience too. It was just me and Al on our tour, and we psyched eachother out a bit when the sun went down and the dung beetles started to circle. I've never seen a starry sky like it. We fell asleep watching shooting stars, under the clearest Milky Way. Amazing. 

Having a laugh on the sand dunes

Camels are funny old creatures; so docile and calm. They can drink 50litres of water at a time, which will last them a whole week. At night they sleep for just ten minutes so the guide tied their legs to stop them straying too far. This video is hilarious: 

Driving the jeep back from the dunes was a highlight, as was visiting the isolated villages that live deep in the desert. 

Off-roadin' 

- Beers with a view.

There's rooftop bars everywhere, so make sure you take the time drink in the view with a cold beverage or 4. We had momos at Shiva restaurant, looked out at the fort from Midtown's terrace and made ourselves comfortable at desert boys. Beers are between 150-200rps after tax. 

- Bhang lassis.

The lassi shop by the fort entrance is known for its Bhang lassis and cookies. You can adjust the strength accordingly... Then just enjoy the ride. 

Back to Delhi we go.

L&A xx

Jaipur: elephants, gin, bunk beds and swimming pools.

Our Lonely Planet guide to India has been renamed The Bible. We take it in turns to lug it around and so far it's yet to really let us down (that is if you take it's  flamboyant reviews with a pinch of salt.) So, when it told us there were hotels in Jaipur that allowed non-guests to pay to use their swimming pool, we knew exactly what we wanted to do as soon as we'd alighted the 12hour overnight train from Varanasi.

Narain Niwas Palace Hotel

We visited Narain Niwas Palace Hotel twice during our stay and pretended for a couple of hours we were staying in a luxury hotel, not living out of a backpack and sharing a dorm room with 7 other girls. We felt like we were breaking the rules, stripping down to our bikinis after days of 'dressing modestly', but it felt a lot like heaven, sipping beers and enjoying the afternoon Indian sun. (250rps per person).

That night we watched the sunset from Nahargarh Fort, which offered an unprecedented panoramic view of the expanse of city below. Get there before 5.30pm to pay your 50rps entry, then scale one of the turrets on the east side for the best seats on the house.

View from the fort 

Dinner was an LP special, at the canteen style restaurant at Hotel Arya Niwas in Chitra Cafw. Lesson learnt here: don't judge the restaurant by it's display plates of food that look like they've been there for weeks. We shared a thali for 120rps and tried the fresh orange juice which is actually made of sweet limes that taste like orange (?). It turns out this place is full of expat locals and we ended up eating dinner with Jo, a jewellery buyer from Kent and Alice, a student working in Delhi who studied at Eastbourne College (small world). 

The Amber Fort was one of Jaipur's highlights, and we spent a good few hours exploring. It's stunning, perching high on a mountainside overlooking a large lake below and surrounded by hills. A turreted wall snakes the area, and looks impressive from each and every angle. The glass palace is also one of the highlights. (200rps) 

An Indian Alan Partridge then hijacked our tuc tuc home and offered to take us for a backstreet tour, free of charge. First stop: Elephant House. A herd of elephants ferry tourists up to amber fort for 3 hours every morning and afternoon. We didn't want to pay the 950rps asking price so sacrificed a meet and greet with the elephants... Or so we thought. The elephant house is where the elephants are kept whilst they're not at the fort. We had a mini photoshoot free of charge, which was pretty cool. 

Alice, me and Madonna

After that, we headed to city palace. My advice? Don't bother. It was 400rps p/p and there was very little going on inside. It's a lovely building, but it doesn't stand out from the rest. We actually got our palms read whilst inside because it was so easy to be distracted by what was actually on offer. (Turns out I am impatient, ambitious and lucky. The chap suggested I wear lots of yellow and, if I get the chance, take a happiness course. 3 kids and 2 relationships are also in my future... apparently.)

That's my 'I can smell bullshit' face

It's worth heading to Ganesh Restaurant atop shop number ten in Nehru Bazaar. Despite the foreigners menu which they whipped out as soon as they saw us walking over the impressive roof terrace, the open kitchen was really impressive and it offers a comfortable bridge from restaurant to street food.

That night a group of us from Zostel made plans to seek out beers in Jaipur. Drinks stop serving at 11pm here, so start early or make friends with a local who can give you details of the underground scene. We ended up, after a couple hours of researching, deliberating and walking, in the basement bar of Copper Chimney on MI Road. Seven £1 g&t's later... 

We nursed our mild hangovers at Lassiwala on MI Road. This place has been imitated 10 times over so make sure you go to the original (it's black with gold writing), where the 20 or 40rps sweet milk drinks are served in clay pots kerbside. Lassi's are great for settling stomachs, too, if Delhi belly has kicked in. 

After that, 15p coffee and 8p roast at the Indian Coffee House on MI road. I loved it here because it was full of locals and it had a real old gentlemens club feel to it. You can imagine all the men sipping coffee and playing darata. 

We set aside a couple of hours after that to just stroll the bustling, winding streets of the Pink (Old) City. Each street varies, with the ones geared at tourists proving a little overwhelming, but the locals roads offering real insight into way of life. Jaipur is famed for its 7 handicraft: textile, Silver jewellery, blue pottery, leather, screen painting, enamel work and carpets, and around 60% of it's population work in the industry. Wholesalers work for the likes of monsoon, Tiffany's and Alice Temperley. In other words it's shoppers heaven. 

A quick take out thali back at zostel before we headed for our late night train, and our time in Jaipur was done. It's been a crazy busy few days.

L&A. Xx 

River boating on the River Ganga in Varanasi, India.

Sunrise and sunset from the back of a rowing boat on the River Ganga in Varanasi. 

Late night GoPro shot.

This holy place is incredible. It's loud, busy, colourful and completely unique. 

Tackling the roads of New Delhi.

Here's a brief insight into the chaotic roads of New Delhi, shot from both a tuc-tuc and a rickshaw:

Alice and I both don't think this does it justice, but it gives you a rough idea. The sound of car horns is relentless out here, and provides the soundtrack to the crazy sights of the city. There are so many people, so many tuc-tucs and a ridiculous amount of knock-off  ray-ban sunglasses for sale. 

Enjoy.

L&A