The best hostels in New Zealand.

New Zealand is really well set up for backpackers. There's so many hostels to choose from at each stop it's hard to know which are the best bunk beds in town. Fear not, I've done the research and would recommend checking in to the below...

First, some advice:

Wifi isn't free in a lot of new Zealand's hostels, particularly up north. Many of them use pay-to-use networks which require regular top ups which, although can handily by done via your card, really start to add up. We were paying $4 for 24hr access to the Global Gossip network. You can buy a 7 day pass for $12 which I would recommend because you can keep signing in at your next stop.

Key deposits are popular, ranging from $10-20 per key. You can pay on card for these but it's handy to have cash, and I'd advise only taking as many keys as are necessary - we'd get one between the three of us.

Label your food. People stay for weeks in these hostels and really start to make themselves at home. Make sure your stuff doesn't get lost in the fridge by clearly labelling. This'll also ensure your stuff isn't chucked out during the weekly fridge clean.

Where to stay.

Roturua: Rock Solid.

Rock solid is a huge hostel, ideally located in the centre of town just minutes from the bus stop and round the corner from the main restaurant/bar strip. Set across two floors, it boasts a large kitchen, two lounges, communal bathrooms, a DVD room and free wifi. The lounge overlooks an indoor climbing wall below where you'll receive a 20% discount as guests. This place has loads of potential and is set up to be a great hostel, however the atmosphere fell a little flat when we were there. The main reason for my recommendation? Rock solid had the comfiest beds we slept on in our month in NZ. $26 per night, 4-bed dorm communal bathroom.

Taupo: Taupo urban retreat.

The large 16 bed dorm at the Urban Retreat is located in the roof of the wooden chalet-style building. It's social,  in an excellent location, offers $5 chilli every evening, cheap bike hire, a DVD room and free computers in reception. The bar is the cheapest happy hour in town with pitchers of beer for $12 and g&t's for four. Wifi is extra, $4 for 24hours or $12 for a week's pass on global gossip (see above). The staff were really friendly, there's a large garden area for al fresco dinner and a free phone to check the status of our skydive while you're there. $23 per night, 16 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Wellington: Base.

I didn't want to recommend staying at Base, because it's a chain that is everywhere and it's set up reflects that: packages for weekly stays, meals for $3 every night, tours operated from the hostels, fines for drinking in the room etc.etc. But Base was the cheapest place we could find in Wellington and we actually enjoyed our three night stay. Location wise you can't really beat it, as it sits at the end of Courtney Place. Set across five floors, Base attracts long stayers and our three roommates were all staying in the city and looking for work (Craig had been staying in the same bunk for 7 weeks.) Socially though this was one of the better places we stayed; it was buzzy at most hours of the day/night, the kitchen was packed at meal times, there's a bar downstairs with happy hour from 8-10pm and, despite the squeaky beds, it was comfortable and the showers were hot. $23 per night, 4 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Marahau (Abel Tasman): The Barn.

In the summer The Barn is a huge camping and caravaning site, spreading across a number of fields and overlooking the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park. We were there off-season but would still recommend it, despite the slightly inflated pricing. We shared a 4-bed dorm which had recently been renovated. It was clean, warm and comfortable (no bunk beds either!) The large communal area boasts a huge DVD room, a big kitchen and a free phone. Toliets and showers are in outside blocks but were remarkably mosquito-free and the showers were hot. The shop stocks over-priced must-haves for your trip into the park including wine and beers, they also rent camping gear and will help out with booking your trip into the park. There's luggage storage too, for a dollar a day, but the water taxi guys will store this for free so I'd do that... $30 per night, 4 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Nelson: Paradiso.

We were pretty gutted to have only been here for one night. The hostel was probably one of the best we stayed in, and we could have stayed put. The pool and hot tub were definitely part of the attraction, along with free breakfast, free soup at 6pm, free wifi and clean, comfortable rooms. The place had an awesome vibe about it, with spontaneous games of volleyball taking place every now and again and a busy, communal kitchen area. $26 per night, 4 bed dorm en-suite bathroom.

Franz Josef: Chataeu Franz.

We had four nights in Franz Josef and chose Chateau Franz as our temporary home. Sit Cedric's is an independant chain of hostels which are spreading across the South Island. They've got a refreshing approach to hosteling, are fun, affordable and don't have the stingy attitude that the successful, large chains do. Wifi was free, breakfast was also free, soup was served (for free) at 1pm every day accompanied by hot rolls and breads from the bakery. The DVD room is big and busy, the hot tub is open until 9 every day, and over the weekends and during the summer the fire pit is lit and BBQs take place. Benjamin, the manager, has big plans for the place, telling us about climbing walls and extensions. I couldn't really recommend here more. $25 a night, 4 bed en-suite.

Queenstown: Southern Laughter 

We stayed here, and I can't not recommend it because it was perfect for us: great location, affordable, free soup, free wifi, hot showers etc. Having stayed at the other Sir Cedric's hostel in Franz Josef, we were able to secure a good rate for our five night stint. Beds were comfy, kitchen was big and tea was free. There's a great roof terrace which gets sun most of the day too. The only downside is that it's not Nomads and I fear it won't ever be.

$23 per night, 3 bed communal bathroom. 

Queenstown: Nomads

We didn't stay here because it was expensive, and it really is compared to other hostels in town. Thing is, these guys get away with the inflated pricing because it is the best place to stay if you want to see the best of Queenstown. It's based in the centre of town in a modem multi-storey building, and it's where people go and end up extending because they're not ready to leave. 

$30+ per night 

Glacier hunting in Franz Josef & Fox Glacier, South Island, New Zealand

The west coast of New Zealand is the wettest part of the country - apart from the Sounds in the Fjordland - and Franz Josef is usually washed with 8 metres of rain a year. We were in the small town for 4 days, due to a slight frustration with the Nakedbus' schedule, and definitely saw our fair share of weather. 

Here's how to see it:

Walking.

You can no longer walk directly onto the glacier at Franz Josef, but you can get pretty close. 

Most people opt to explore the ice via helicopter; you fly up and land on the ice then, kitted out with boots and thermals, can explore the ice tunnels and formations that shape the landscape. The ice explorer trip costs $315, so is pretty steep, and unless you have a completely clear day, it's hard to say if it's worth it. We couldn't have done the flight if we'd wanted to because of the weather so preceded to explore the surroundings on foot. 

There's a shuttle from town to the glacier footpaths which is $12.50, but the walk isn't long - about 20-30mins - so it's your call. 

Franz Josef glacier still looks pretty spectacular from 200 metres away, and the walk to access it is stunning. The varied scenery, from baron rocks to sheet ice to lush bush and abundant waterfalls, feels otherworldly at times. 

Walking to the glacier 

It's worth visiting Peters Pool while you're there too, on a clear day the water looks amazing with the reflection of the mountains in the background.

Don't miss out on a visit to Fox Glacier. It's about a half hour drive from Franz, so you'll need a car to get there and around, or could in high season book onto a tour.

Mirror image in Matherson

 Lake Matherson is one of the most stunning places we have visited. The water was so still that you could see the perfect reflection of the mountains and the foliage around it.

A visit to the beach on a clearer/warmer/generally better day is also worth it. The beach is littered with drift wood which resembles the elephant graveyard scene in Lion King. 

The final stop in Fox Glacier is the glacier itself. Similarly to Franz Josef, you can no longer walk on the ice. Again though, the view point is worth the hike. 

Sleeping.

Stay at Sir Cedric's Chateau Franz. We paid $25 a night for a four bed dorm room with en-suite shower, free wifi, free breakfast, free nightly vegetable soup (a huge vat is cooked fresh everyday at 6pm and served with an assortment of breads, it does resemble Maggi's 2-minute noodles every so slightly, but it's a free meal which is exactly what skint backpackers are after.) Location wise the Chateau is bang on and the staff were brilliant, making sure you take advantage of the free popcorn and huge DVD room and the lazy spa which is open til 9pm. Benjamin, the owners son, was amazing, making us feel right at home and going out of his way to make the stay perfect.

Eating.

Grab dinner at Eighty-Eight, the Asian fusion restaurant in town. We got a free drink each as Chateau residents and the food was great. 

I had gurnard which was catch of the day and the girls opted for Thai green curry ($15-$25). For a quick lunch or snack to the Picnics, the bakery on the main road. 

The pie and pasty selection is amazing and the donuts are famous for all the right reasons. Saturday is donut day if you're a fan, and the number of flavours on offer triples for one day only. Full of beans is another good breakfast or lunch spot, and the coffee is pretty great too. Burgers are around 12 bucks, there's a good sandwich and cake selection or you can grab soup of the day for $8. 

Drinking.

Franz Josef is tiny. The town is a single road of souvenir shops and restaurants, with one Four Square and a petrol station. So don't come here and expect mental partying until 4am. That said, the locals do give it a good go and there are a couple of places if you fancy a bevvy or 6. Blue ice is the main bar, and it was where we ended up (driven via hummerzine) on Halloween. 

The drinks were cheap, the music was surprisingly decent and the bar shows all the big sports games too. Monsoon is the other bar, frequented by locals but also welcoming travellers. Chat to the staff at the hostel about offers. The nearest liquor store is in Haast, so you'll be drinking beer and wine while you're here unless you have a car to make the trip, but the supermarket's reasonable. 

Rainy days.

We bought tickets to the Kiwi experience on bookme (best site ever!) for $17 and it was a bit of a disappointment. If I'd paid full price I'd've been pretty annoyed (it's normally $35!) there's a room full of kiwi enclosures but viewing is limited and it depends on the time of day whether you are lucky enough to see on. We did, but it was very dark so we're not actually entirely sure what we were looking at. We did meet a taxidermy goat though. 

Until Wanaka,

L, L & A. Xx 

Taupo, North Island, New Zealand

The lake at Taupo is as stunning as Pinterest promised, so make sure you give yourself a couple of days to take it all in. 

The best hostel in town? Taupo urban retreat. For $23 a night we got a bed in the 16-bed attic dorm. The place was pretty buzzy with a cheap bar - $4 g&t's at happy hour - bike rental for $20 a half-day, free computers in reception and chilli available every night for just $5. Wifi is extra, $4 for 24hrs access, which isn't ideal but is a common situation in the north island. 

The best places to eat? There's plenty of bars and restaurants right on the water, though you'll pay a premium price for the views. The lake house has a great craft beer menu whilst pub'n'grub serves huge salads for $17.

Pub'n'grub (inticing name..)

Tank is a cheap spot for salads and smoothies, and the pantry is a great rustic style cafe/restaurant.

The McDonalds in Taupo is one of the chains most famous, so make sure you take time to drop by for a cuppa/happy meal/McFlurry. 

Drinking? Taupo Retreat's bar is the cheapest in town, so start there. On a Thursday night the Irish pub, Macgullins, has an open mic night. There's one nightclub in town, which is next door to the base hostel. In fact, if you're looking for a big night, the base hostel isn't a bad place to start. 

Must sees? Make sure you head to Huka falls. The huge waterfall is about 20minutes out of town and is one of the biggest national attractions in the country. 

We rented bikes from Top Gear on the Main Street for $20 for a half-day, and the track to the falls was awesome. It's worth the ride, especially if you're a mountain bike fan. Hard work, but great fun. You can see the falls by boat, too, for $35 if you fancy a different point of view. 

Must dos? Skydiving in Lake Taupo is one of the best things I have ever done. Throwing myself out of a plane has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, and it didn't disappoint. 

Taupo skydive pick you up in limousine, sell you a load of additional merchandise in the shape of personalised GoPro films and pictures, kit you out in a jumpsuit and condom hat and load you into a bright pink plane. 

The climb, to 15,000ft, is beautiful. Lake Taupo stretches out beneath you and on a clear day you can see both of the North Island's coastlines. At 8,000ft everyone is given oxygen, which freaked me out slightly, but I was reassured that it was only there as a precautionary measure and to aid people's recollection of the jump when they land. That aside, I was one of the last to jump to ensure that I recieved as much of the good stuff pre-jump as possible. You're instructed to put your legs out of the plane and put your head back. After that, there's no going back.

Freefallin'

I couldn't describe jumping if I tried, nor the minutes freefall that followed, but it was better than I ever imagined it would be and as soon as it was over I wanted to do it again. 

Taking the reins 

In total, with the video (which I'll share when I'm back in blighty), the photos and a t-shirt, the jump cost $439. Yes, it's expensive (£215) but I'd pay it again in a heartbeat. 

I can guarantee it won't be my final flight.

L x