Eating our way around India.

Surviving a month in India without getting Delhi belly is probably one of my greatest achievements. Don't think we did that by just avoiding the cuisine all together though... Here's some of the best things we ate that you should look out for if you're in the country.

Thali was one of our favourite discoveries, and fast became a staple meal during our time in Rajahstan. Traditionally a South India dish, we actually had our best Thali's up north. Ranging from 70-300rps (depending on how classy the place and whether you opt for the fish, meat or veggie versions), Thalis usually consist of 2 roti, a poppadom and a small serving of steamed rice, these to accompany at least two curries, a Dahl, a portion of curd and occasionally a chutney. Eat with your hands and tuck in. 

Lassis are curd based drinks that can be served salty, sweet or mixed with fruit. Ranging from 20-120rps depending on the place and the flavour combinations. Mango lassis are a firm favourite in India, but I'd always recommend going with the fruit in season. The best we had were from blue lassis in Varanasi (pictured), which was more like a yogurt than a drink, and Lassiwala in Jaipur which was served plain (sweet) in disposable clay pots. 

It was the recommendation of many to 'go veggie' during our time in India, and although some would argue that that was a shame as it meant we missed out on some foods, it wasn't an issue for us as the vegetarian food is so readily available, so varied and so tasty. We ate veg curries most days; ranging from the simple mix veg to the more adventurous malay kofta (an almond, potato and cauliflower kofta served in a creamy cashew sauce). Paneer is a soft cheese which makes an appearance in almost every veggie dish, and if you're a fan you should definitely try palak paneer (with spinach) and paneer masala. The cashew curries are also great and we has an excellent cashew and pineapple at laughing Buddha in Hampi. Be adventurous, the combinations are great.

A couple of translations:

Palak: spinach

Aloo: potato

Paneer: soft cheese

Gobi: cauliflower 

Mutter: beans

Chana: chickpeas

Chapati/ roti cost between 5-20rps and are eaten with almost every meal. Some have them instead of rice and others have them alongside. The simplest are plain, and are made with water and whole meal flour and cooked without fat making them the healthiest option. Parathas and naan can be stuffed with everything from potato to spinach to cheese and garlic. 

Chai is such an institution in India, and so quickly becomes part of your daily routine, that I almost didn't include it in this list. The sweet, milky spiced tea is served everywhere, and regularly offered a gift from shopkeepers, hoteliers and villagers alike. It's the perfect start to the day, but isn't for those who don't have a sweet tooth. The best we had was in the Shantaram slum in Mumbai for 6p. Amazing. 

Momos are steamed buns which are very similar to gyoza. I preferred them with less spice as they reminded me of the Japanese snack from home. They're actually Tibetan, and can be filled with vegetables, chicken or fish. 

Shakarkandi are a steamed sweet potato street food that's native to Delhi. It's guilt-free too, which is always nice. Vendors chop the piping hot spuds onto a tapas-sized plate then douse it with lemon juice. It's then sprinkled with chaat masala which is a combo of black pepper, chilli, cumin, dried mango and sugar to name but a few. Only 20rps too. 

Petha is a traditional Indian sweet, native to Agra. It's made from white pumpkin and is similar to Turkish delight. We weren't the biggest fans; the texture was a bit strange. But for 50rps, when in Rome, right? 

Manchurian's are popular across India and can be found on most menus that boast a multi-cuisine offering. Be it chicken, prawn, mushroom or another vegetable, the main ingredient is battered and deep fried then stir fried in a Chinese-style sauce with green peppers. 

Goa is the place to go for fresh seafood. Squid, shark, snapper; prawn, lobster or scallops: you can buy by the kilo, or opt for tandoor. Just keep an eye on the restaurant cleanliness as shellfish in particular is always a little risqué, even more so if you're trying to avoid Delhi belly. 

Bhel puri is a puffed rice street food at its most famous on Chowpatty beach in Mumbai. It's similar to Bombay mix, only 'wetter'. Puffed rice is mixed with peanuts, red onion, chilli, tomato, potato, fresh parsley and spices. Eat with your hands for a healthy (and spicy!) between meal snack. 

Jaipur: elephants, gin, bunk beds and swimming pools.

Our Lonely Planet guide to India has been renamed The Bible. We take it in turns to lug it around and so far it's yet to really let us down (that is if you take it's  flamboyant reviews with a pinch of salt.) So, when it told us there were hotels in Jaipur that allowed non-guests to pay to use their swimming pool, we knew exactly what we wanted to do as soon as we'd alighted the 12hour overnight train from Varanasi.

Narain Niwas Palace Hotel

We visited Narain Niwas Palace Hotel twice during our stay and pretended for a couple of hours we were staying in a luxury hotel, not living out of a backpack and sharing a dorm room with 7 other girls. We felt like we were breaking the rules, stripping down to our bikinis after days of 'dressing modestly', but it felt a lot like heaven, sipping beers and enjoying the afternoon Indian sun. (250rps per person).

That night we watched the sunset from Nahargarh Fort, which offered an unprecedented panoramic view of the expanse of city below. Get there before 5.30pm to pay your 50rps entry, then scale one of the turrets on the east side for the best seats on the house.

View from the fort 

Dinner was an LP special, at the canteen style restaurant at Hotel Arya Niwas in Chitra Cafw. Lesson learnt here: don't judge the restaurant by it's display plates of food that look like they've been there for weeks. We shared a thali for 120rps and tried the fresh orange juice which is actually made of sweet limes that taste like orange (?). It turns out this place is full of expat locals and we ended up eating dinner with Jo, a jewellery buyer from Kent and Alice, a student working in Delhi who studied at Eastbourne College (small world). 

The Amber Fort was one of Jaipur's highlights, and we spent a good few hours exploring. It's stunning, perching high on a mountainside overlooking a large lake below and surrounded by hills. A turreted wall snakes the area, and looks impressive from each and every angle. The glass palace is also one of the highlights. (200rps) 

An Indian Alan Partridge then hijacked our tuc tuc home and offered to take us for a backstreet tour, free of charge. First stop: Elephant House. A herd of elephants ferry tourists up to amber fort for 3 hours every morning and afternoon. We didn't want to pay the 950rps asking price so sacrificed a meet and greet with the elephants... Or so we thought. The elephant house is where the elephants are kept whilst they're not at the fort. We had a mini photoshoot free of charge, which was pretty cool. 

Alice, me and Madonna

After that, we headed to city palace. My advice? Don't bother. It was 400rps p/p and there was very little going on inside. It's a lovely building, but it doesn't stand out from the rest. We actually got our palms read whilst inside because it was so easy to be distracted by what was actually on offer. (Turns out I am impatient, ambitious and lucky. The chap suggested I wear lots of yellow and, if I get the chance, take a happiness course. 3 kids and 2 relationships are also in my future... apparently.)

That's my 'I can smell bullshit' face

It's worth heading to Ganesh Restaurant atop shop number ten in Nehru Bazaar. Despite the foreigners menu which they whipped out as soon as they saw us walking over the impressive roof terrace, the open kitchen was really impressive and it offers a comfortable bridge from restaurant to street food.

That night a group of us from Zostel made plans to seek out beers in Jaipur. Drinks stop serving at 11pm here, so start early or make friends with a local who can give you details of the underground scene. We ended up, after a couple hours of researching, deliberating and walking, in the basement bar of Copper Chimney on MI Road. Seven £1 g&t's later... 

We nursed our mild hangovers at Lassiwala on MI Road. This place has been imitated 10 times over so make sure you go to the original (it's black with gold writing), where the 20 or 40rps sweet milk drinks are served in clay pots kerbside. Lassi's are great for settling stomachs, too, if Delhi belly has kicked in. 

After that, 15p coffee and 8p roast at the Indian Coffee House on MI road. I loved it here because it was full of locals and it had a real old gentlemens club feel to it. You can imagine all the men sipping coffee and playing darata. 

We set aside a couple of hours after that to just stroll the bustling, winding streets of the Pink (Old) City. Each street varies, with the ones geared at tourists proving a little overwhelming, but the locals roads offering real insight into way of life. Jaipur is famed for its 7 handicraft: textile, Silver jewellery, blue pottery, leather, screen painting, enamel work and carpets, and around 60% of it's population work in the industry. Wholesalers work for the likes of monsoon, Tiffany's and Alice Temperley. In other words it's shoppers heaven. 

A quick take out thali back at zostel before we headed for our late night train, and our time in Jaipur was done. It's been a crazy busy few days.

L&A. Xx 

2 Days in New Delhi: Do's and don't's.

Do:

- Eat the "best thali on Delhi" (according to lonely planet) at Hotel Savarana Bhavan in block 15 on Connaught place. A canteen style restaurant that is full of locals and serves huge, fresh dosas from as little as 65rps (60p). We shared the mixed mini tiffin too, and although we had no idea what we were eating, it was great. Meal for two with soft drinks: 325rps 

- Head to the Main Bazzaar in Paharganj. It's busy, but not as intense as the Chandni Chowk or Khan markets. We got 4 pairs of trousers for 500rps, and could have continued shopping all day. There are a lot of cheap backpacker hostels on thai road too, we stopped at Ajays for a drink and free wifi, there were more travellers in that one restaurant than we saw anywhere else in the city.

- Visit Humayun Tomb. The entrance fee is 250rps for foreigners, but it's worth it because the tomb is beautiful. Known locally as the mini Taj, it offers lovely views of the city if nothing else. Al and I loved the garden tomb out front. 

- India gate is also worth a look, though only for a quick pic. The Red Fort, too, is a popular tourist spot. Again, it cost 250rps pp. We spent an hour or so exploring the buildings and people watching. Make sure you take water because it is hot; and expect to be bombarded with tour guide offers, tuc-tub rides and photos. 

Don't:

- Don't go into Chowri Chowk without a guide. This market is huge, and it's like a labyrinth. We paid 100rps for an hour, and our guide Ichbali rode us on his rickshaw through some of the popular streets, then walked us through the narrower parts of the Bazzaar. We wouldn't have done it alone because it was mental, so it's worth having someone tag along. 

Check out my video: http://youtu.be/VM4H1u990i8

- Don't scream and run away from the men trying to sell wooden snakes in the market. It's a little embarassing. 🐍

- Don't get caught up in a taxi tour scam. We took the hotels cab on the first day and, although we had a great day, did visit a number of places we knew nothing about and didn't find all that memorable. Everyone likes different things, but it's worth making sure your route is sorted before you set off. 

- Be careful at night. A lot of Indian men like to think they are helping by warning you about pickpockets and what-not. This happened to us a couple of times and if anything freaked us out. Be firm, and just be aware that at night you're an easier target than during the day.