3 days in Hampi.

Where to stay?

Unbeknownst to us we arrived in Hampi in time for the Navarti festival season, which is an Indian holiday and therefore saw us join the thousands of tourists (both domestic and backpackers) who had chosen to descend upon the ancient town for the weekend. Almost every hotel  and guesthouse on the bazaar side of the river was full. We'd planned to cross the river and stay on the other side where alcohol is legal, but high tides stopped the boats for crossing. 

We met Will, a lone traveller from Virginia, at the bus station in Paniji and ended up sharing a room at Mayurums homestay for 1,200rps per night. Pricey, but the lowest we could wangle considering the holidays. Ravi, the owner, was more than obliging and the room was actually great, with a large bed, hot shower and good wifi. 

Netra guesthouse, on the edge of the bazaar, has cheap rooms and an awesome rooftop restaurant so that's defintaly worth a look.

On the other side of the river, the laughing Buddha is a hotspot that offers riverside bungalows for those willing to pay a little more.

If you're budgeting, head to sunny's guesthouse or further down the road to Shantis bungalows.

Exploring Hampi.

Day one we explored the town on foot and soaked up the infectious festival atmosphere. Ruins decorate your every line of sight in Hampi, there is no escaping them. Standing tall in the centre of it all is the Virupaksha temple with its intricate carvings and high walls. Cover yourself up if you visit, and expect to pay 20rps entry. Keep an eye out for Lakshmi, the temple elephant, who'll give you a happy slap on the head if you give her a few paper rupees (she wouldn't except coins, clever thing.) Monkeys are everywhere, adding to the 'raiders of the lost ark' feel about the place, and the place is full of people.

On foot you can explore the rock faces that border the town, littered with huge boulders and weathered temple ruins. Scale the stairs to theivandrum temple at the end of the road leading out of Hampi, it's worth it for the view. 

Day two we hired bicycles for 100rps each per day. Scooters are about 200-250rps, however we quite fancied the exercise. The roads are easy to navigate and by going it alone, without a tour guide, you're free to roam and take in as much or as little temple as you like. 

The underground shrine is definitely worth a look, but things do get a little touristy at the main site and you should expect to pay 250rps to enter the elephant stables. My advice? Go it alone, the landscape is unlike anywhere in the world and the surrounding villages are fascinating.

On our second night, the town lit 10,000 candles outside the Virupaksha temple, to mark the start of the Navarati celebrations. 

Family's dressed up in their finest clothes, with the women decorating themselves in highly embellished saris with bells round their ankles and flowers in their hair, and the men wearing crisp new Sherwani. We were honoured to be asked to get involved, and it was amazing standing amongst the candles and watching the procession, led by Lakshmi. 

Day three, the river crossing re-opened. The boat costs between 30-50rps (depending on the boatman...), and takes a matter of minutes. The other side is a little more chilled than the bazaar, alcohol is legal there and Bhang is readily available. We hired cycles again (50rps for the day) and went in search of the nearby lake. It's beautiful, and although the ride nearly killed us (over 5km, uphill, in the midday sun) it was worth the sweatfest.

Ignore the signs warning about crocodiles, they were put up to stop people swimming after a number of incidents in the dam. 

The water's safe and deep, too, making it perfect for cliff jumping. 

Star attraction...

Just be aware that you may quickly become the star attraction as word spreads around the nearby villages that westerners are jumping. There were about 20 pubescent males stood on the cliffs taking pictures by the time we took the plunge. 

We didn't get a chance to visit, but the monkey temple was highly recommended to us as a great place to view sunset on the other side of the river. 

Where to eat?

Netra guesthouse on the bazaar side is a backpackers hub, and serves great food at a reasonable price. The salads we're stand-out, with the 'funky monkey veggie salad' being my recommendation and a steal at 180rps. Breakfast is also good here, and the lazy bar layout makes it a great place to wile away the hours. You can get booze here too, despite the ban, just ask for the 'special' drinks. 

Netra restaurant 

Ravi rose will also get you beers, however you'll pay 250rps per can which is really quite expensive. Bhang lassis can also be bought at this rooftop, lazy restaurant. The food was tasty, with Thalis on offer and great stuffed partharas.

On the other side of the river, laughing Buddha is the place to be. Service is very slow, but drinks are readily available, the menu is vast, and the view is great. 

Chilling at the Laughing Buddha

And the rest...

We got massages at the Lotus salon, adjacent to Gantapi restaurant. A full hour, full body Ayurvedic, cost 600rps per person and was literally the best thing ever after a 12hour sleeper bus. 

Yoga classes are on offer at Gopi's guesthouse for 150rps each. 

I loved hampi and could have stayed for days. 3 is enough to see the place, but people linger here and it's clear to see why. You can just keep exploring.

L&A x