What should women wear when travelling in India?

How women travellers should dress in India is an ongoing discussion. It's the question I've been asked most since I've been out here and the issue that Alice and I struggled most with before we came. So, here's a brief overview in relation to the places we visited.

Before I begin, though, it should be said that how you dress is completely down to you, and what you are comfortable with. At the end of the day you are a travelling woman in India, you are going to get lots of looks from locals (both male and female) and will attract attention by just being there. How you dress will only affect the sort of attention you receive. Alice and I didn't once feel threatened on our trip. Yes, people looked at us, and often we did flash a little more knee/shoulder than is probably encouraged; but we did so under the clear understanding that we were going to generate that kind of reaction and were comfortable with that fact.

North India

Delhi
Delhi is a crazy place. It might be smaller than Mumbai with a smaller population, but it feels that bit more chaotic. To us, it felt dirtier and more intrusive. Make sure you have a shawl with you at all times and I would keep your shoulders and knees covered, just to avoided the attention. You can buy trousers for 100rps in most of the bazaars, so stock up at the beginning of the trip.
If you visit any temples you will have to cover up, but it is worth donning the same garb for any palace or fort visits; people will ask to take photos of you in Delhi.

Varanasi
Varanasi is a holy city, 300 funerals take place here every day. It's hot and humid and intense and you'll sweat more than you ever thought was physically possible, but keep covered up at all times here; just out of respect.

Agra
Being a tourist destination, the Taj Mahal is full of people from every corner of the globe. You could wear anything you liked here, really, so it's up to you whether or not you want to observe the more conservative dress code. We did, because it felt more respectful.

Jaipur
Jaipur is a little more chilled out, so it is at your discretion how much flesh you show. Keep a scarf with you and just be respectful. It is worth noting that a lot of people living in Jaipur aren't as used to westerners than those in the big cities; Jaipur is huge and quite poor in parts, so just be aware that you might attract a lot of attention.

Jaisalmer
I got my shoulders out in Jaisalmer for the first time. It is a small city, and felt that more chilled. We ensured we always had something to cover us up, but were a bit more relaxed on the dress code. Just, as a mentioned, be aware of the level of attention you might attract while you are there. Many of the camel safaris offer village visits; I would recommend keeping covered up for these, just to avoid creating anymore havoc than your presence alone will inevitably cause.

South India

We only visited a very small part of South India, so you may need to look around for advice on how to dress in Kerala, Chennai and beyond.

Goa
Goa is a bit like a beach resort. People walk through the streets in their bikinis here, especially in Palolem. We didn't go that far, but shorts and dresses were fine. Bikinis are all good on the beach, though I would recommend finding a slightly quieter patch of sand and maybe tucking yourselves behind a boat or something similar to avoid drawing a crowd. A lot of people told us to cover up on the local buses, however we found that we didn't draw any additional attention so carried on as we were (keeping a shawl or scarf with us at all times).

Hampi
Hampi is a very sacred place. If you are visiting any of the active temples make sure you cover up; chances are you will be asked to by the tourist information guys if you don't. The rest of the place you are fine; Hampi draws a lot of domestic tourists to it's ruins so just be aware that you might stick out a little bit and get a few looks from other Indians.

Mumbai
Dress according to your activity and location. If you're visiting the slums be respectful and conservative and consider that people aren't that used to scantily clad western women wandering around. In Colaba we felt quite comfortable in dresses with shawls, though we did put trousers on at night. Be aware of the Bollywood talent scouts that patrol the strip outside Leopold's; it is more than likely that you'll be scouted to be extra in an up and coming film if you're a woman and you're western and you're arms or legs are exposed (we were scouted within a minute of getting out of the cab!)

My main advice would be to stick within your comfort zone. Alice and I felt comfortable in Goa wearing summer clothes, but for much of Rajahstan we kept our shoulders and knees covered. Understand that you are already attracting a lot of attention, and what you wear will only add or subtract from that.

L&A x 

Varanasi: the highlights.

The river. 

The holy town of Varanasi lines the River Ganga; rising high above it's banks. Steps down to holy river are lined with people bathing, praying and blessing most of the day. These steps are broken into sections called Ghats, and there are about 25 in total bordering the cities riverside. 

The burning ghats are the most fascinating, and the best way to take a look at them as a tourist are by boat. 

The fires burn 24hours, and over 300 people are cremated in them everyday. From the boat you can see the next family lining up to burn and worship their dead. A line of colourfully decorated stretchers lie on the stairs awaiting their turn to be plunged into the river before their funeral fire is built, using the best wood the family can afford, and the 5 selected family members light their loved ones fire and say goodbye. 

There are no tears allowed at the burning ghats. This is a holy place and it is an honour to be sent off in this way. For many Hindus, it is in Varanasi that they will achieve moksha, the end of their life of reincarnation and the ultimate liberation. 

There is a spectacular ceremony at 6.30pm every night at a Ghat in the centre of town. Hundreds of boats take to the river, containing thousands of tourists and pilgrims alike, to listening to the chanting and watch the colourful celebration of the dead.

A morning boattrip is also a pretty spectacular experience. At 5am Varanasi becomes remarkably quiet, and it's the best time to take to the water to watch the sunrise and witness the city wake up before your very eyes. Groups of family members in mourning continue their 15 days of early morning river blessings ahead of their dead's cremation. Locals wash in the river, people wash clothes, children play. 

A riverside view gives you an amazing insight into the highly traditional values that this city has built into its foundation. It is a real honour to be welcomed and given the chance to witness and understand. 

(Between 100-150rps per person per hour. We did an hours ride in the morning and evening. Be careful of Mosquitos, and respectful when taking photos.) 

The streets.

You're offered tours wherever you go. Everyone appears to be a tour guide, and everyones uncle seems to own 'the best silk shop in Varanasi'.

We didn't do a tour, and although we did spent most of our time in one quarter of the city, we found it to be the best way to soak everything in.

You walk past all the temples, hear the chanting, see the families gathering together in preparation for their send off; the women adorned in beautiful colours and the men with white across their foreheads. Everyday, almost 300 bodies are paraded through these streets prior to their final goodbye on the banks of the river. We saw a pregnant lady being carried on her stretcher which was as hard-hitting as we could really take. 

What's crazy is how de-sensitised the rest of the city is to these parades. For them this is the norm, and the holiness of their home city is seeped in every inch of the place. 

It's easy to get around because popular place names and hotels are painted in bright colours all over the walls.

Rooftop beers:

There are loads of rooftop bars in the city, some far better than others. Here's our lowdown:

Hotel Alka

We stayed here, and although I wouldn't recommend the hotel, the restaurant was fantastic. Killer views, cheap food cooked fresh and to order and beers for 125rps. The pakoras are lovely, and you can get a great veg thali for 160rps which fed us both.

Puja

Loney Planet liked this place. We didn't so much. The views at Alka were better and despite advertising live classical music at 8pm, when we arrived at 7 there was no other diner in sight. We left. 

Dolphin restaurant

Superb view, but you pay for it. 

Brown bread bakery

There's two of these so be careful. You want the old one if anyone asks. My advice? Follow the smell of freshly baked pastries and watch out for the logo.

It's about 6 floors up, but it's clear to see why lonely planet loves this place. 

We shared a still-hot cinnamon roll and a slice of lemon cake with 2 ice-cold beers and a great view on their surprisingly peaceful terrace.

A bread basket is offered regardless of what you order, and the brown soda bread is great. 

A little pricey, but a backpackers hotspot for a reason. 

Must dos:

The Yoga Training Centre puts on three two hour drop-in sessions a day at 8am, 10am and 4pm. We were the only two in our class and it was great. Amit and Sunil  are both very knowledgeable (Amit, the most flexible man I've ever met), and the two of them took great pleasure in contorting the two sweaty messes that we were. 400rps each is a bit of a bargain too. 

Make sure you also find time to pop to the 79 year old Blue Lassi (it's widely signposted). We tried our first Indian lassi there and it was amazing. Served in these cute little clay pots and just 70rps a piece, they were the perfect breakfast.

We left our mark too, by signing the walls along with the other backpackers.

Watch our for animal poo. It's everywhere. So are cows, you have to walk around them like their traffic cones. 

Bring ear plugs. I've never heard noise like it at 3am. 

River boating on the River Ganga in Varanasi, India.

Sunrise and sunset from the back of a rowing boat on the River Ganga in Varanasi. 

Late night GoPro shot.

This holy place is incredible. It's loud, busy, colourful and completely unique.