Camel safari in Jaisalmer.

If you're not careful you'll find yourself falling in love with Jaisalmer, and end up staying far longer than you planned. Rising from the surrounding desert like a sandcastle, Jaisalmer Fort sits at the centre of the city and it's quite simply, beautiful.

Chai with a view.

The surrounding streets are decorated with havelis, and everywhere you look there are stunning views of the desert stretching as far as the eye can see. It's quieter here; calmer, more laid back. Drink it in, because it's kind of addictive.

Do:

- Stay in the fort.

This is the only living fort in the country so seize the opportunity to stay inside. We stayed at Desert boys guesthouse (1,400rps with free pick-up) and were l so glad we did. A maze of stairways leading to terraces and rooms, the views were spectacular. 

Sunrise on the terrace at Desert Boys 

The restaurant is good too, and it also serves beer. Chai was offered left right and centre and although the wifi was weak, I'd recommend paying a little more for the experience. 

- Ride a camel.

Everyone will offer you a camel safari in Jaisalmer: your tuc tuc driver, the hotel porter, the fruit vendor on the roadside. Shop around, and make sure you know what you want to get out of the tour. There's touristy options which are cheaper, or you can pay a little more for a more authentic 'off the beaten track' experience.

Me and my ride.

We did a whole days riding which in hingsight was a little long. However, cooking lunch over a fire under a tree in the middle of a desert was a pretty cool experience. Our desert guide, Kelu, let Alice and I get involved in making fresh pakora, vegetable curry and chapatis. 

Camping under the stars was definitely an experience too. It was just me and Al on our tour, and we psyched eachother out a bit when the sun went down and the dung beetles started to circle. I've never seen a starry sky like it. We fell asleep watching shooting stars, under the clearest Milky Way. Amazing. 

Having a laugh on the sand dunes

Camels are funny old creatures; so docile and calm. They can drink 50litres of water at a time, which will last them a whole week. At night they sleep for just ten minutes so the guide tied their legs to stop them straying too far. This video is hilarious: 

Driving the jeep back from the dunes was a highlight, as was visiting the isolated villages that live deep in the desert. 

Off-roadin' 

- Beers with a view.

There's rooftop bars everywhere, so make sure you take the time drink in the view with a cold beverage or 4. We had momos at Shiva restaurant, looked out at the fort from Midtown's terrace and made ourselves comfortable at desert boys. Beers are between 150-200rps after tax. 

- Bhang lassis.

The lassi shop by the fort entrance is known for its Bhang lassis and cookies. You can adjust the strength accordingly... Then just enjoy the ride. 

Back to Delhi we go.

L&A xx

Hotel City Star, New Delhi.

I booked 3 nights at City Star as a birthday present for Al, and a way of breaking us both in to the chaos of Delhi. At around £70 for 3 nights, it is no doubt the most expensive place we'll stay. With good reviews on booking.com, free wifi and breakfast, and the promise of complimentary airport pick-up, it seemed like the good choice. 

We arrived in Delhi airport a half hour later than scheduled. Our bags took another nail-biting 45minutes to arrive. By this point it was 4.30am and we were beginning to stress out ever so slightly... We left the airport, hoping to see our names amongst the white boards held out offering lifts to hotels around the city. Alas, ours was not there. Keen to keep the faith, we left the airport to check the outside crowds. Still no sign, and now no way back into the airport or means of changing money. Hesitantly we resided to the fact that we were going to have to join the mass of people and attempt to get a cab... With no Indian cash. 

$7 and 45minutes later (with at least roadside stops as we attempted to show the driver where the hotel actually was...) we finally rocked up at the hotel. Time: 5.45am. "Our driver was waiting for you for an hour and a half" the guy on reception said. Sod's law; we probably missed him by minutes. The desk rectified this straight away by offering a complimentary ride back to the airport after our stay... So all was not lost.

The room was large and clean, with a queen sized bed and a huge window over-looking not a lot. Complimentary water and papers were supplied everyday, and towels and toiletries were stocked in the bathroom. The tv didn't work, and there wasn't a hairdryer but we didn't really have (m)any complaints. 

Breakfast was a simple affair out on the roof terrace; with a good selection of Indian options which we stayed clear of. For the less adventurous (us), cereal, toast and fruit were offered along with pancakes and omelettes to order. The coffee was alright too. 

The roof terrace was one of the hotels best features; it'd be a good spot for a beer and a game of cards.

Overall the staff were really friendly and obliging, the wifi was good, the gym was well equipped and the location was pretty perfect. We took up the offer of the hotels cab for the first day and Rashu their driver took us to all the sights, whilst also doubling up as our private photographer. At 800rps for both I think we were probably ripped off; but it was an easy option and we weren't about to step out in Delhi on our first day and grab a random tuc-tuc. 

Overall, it was a good stay I'd say. 

(There's Alice in the lobby with our travel companions Bentley and Boris.)