Beachcomber: Fiji's party island?

You can walk around Beachcomber island in ten minutes, it's that small.

Pulling up to it on the Yasawa flyer it looks every inch the image of the deserted island that you conjure up when you think of Fiji. Beachcomber's got a reputation for being the party island of the Yasawa's, and yes, we did spend the majority of our three days intoxicated. But beyond that, Beachcomber has got this paradise thing down to a tee and we absolutely loved it.

Accommodation
The words '90-bed dorm' didn't fill us with much confidence when it came to the sleeping arrangements on Beachcomber. 90 girls, one room, no walls... Yeah, it sounded like hell. So, the fact that it was actually really not that bad at all, was a really pleasant surprise. Inconsiderate girls getting back drunk and shouting at each other only added to the experience.

We slept well, but then the dorm wasn't even half full; in fact there were probably only about 20 of us in there due to it being off-season. I don't really want to think about what it would be like if it was full...

Food
The best thing about food on Beachcomber was the fish. Every lunch and dinner offered a fish dish, a meat dish and something for the vegetarians. The salad was fresh, the fruit was constantly topped up and there was chocolate cake on night two. We ate well for the first time in a while and it was awesome.
Beachcomber prides itself on it's party atmosphere (and it definitely has quite a reputation to live up to.)

DRINKKSSSS

There are three happy hours a day. There are games in the evening. The music pumps until the early hours. People dance on the beach and on the tables. They skinny dip and they drink all day long. If you want to party, or at least meet like-minded people that are up for a laugh and a drinking game and chats until the early hours, here's the island to visit.

Activities 
The island might be tiny, but there is plenty to do on Beachcomber (drinking and sunbathing aside) and the staff are keen to get everyone involved in all of the free activities.
Fish feeding happens twice a day and it is a brilliant experience. Thousands of fish swarm to the boat as we pull up to the coral 5 minutes out to sea. We fed them bread and they took it out of our hands - very cool.

There's coral viewing too, and you can go and see the turtles which are kept on the other side of the island. Basket weaving, talks about the wildlife, classes on how to tie your sari; Beachcomber has got it all.

Day trips are also widely available form here, both South Sea Island and Castaway are nearby and you can jump on a day cruise.

I'd recommend Beachcomber if you are up for a good time and want to meet people that are keen to do the same. It's a tiny island with a lot going for it (and the really great cocktails certainly help.)

L, L & A. x

15 things you need to know if you're travelling around New Zealand.

1. Most places don't accept British driving licenses as a form of ID, so you'll need to take your passport out with you if you're drinking. That said, even if you're not drinking a lot of establishments must ID you and ensure you're of age to allow you on the premises, so it's worth carrying it with you. 

2. Bookme.co.nz is a deal website similar to groupon that can save you a shed-load of money when you're travelling in New Zealand. From offers on food and drink to hugely discounted Milford sound boat cruises and bungee-jumps, it's worth browsing the site before you book anything. 

The ice bar is half price on bookme 

3. Spirits (liquor) can't be purchased from supermarkets or newsagents, you need to go to a designated liquor store to buy the stronger stuff. We were pretty partial to the Park Lane premix g&t's; 6 for $12.

4. Emergency healthcare is free to British citizens under a reciprocal agreement between the two countries. So, if like me you find yourself needing an air ambulance in the middle of a national park, you can get the healthcare you require without worrying about how the hell you'll ever pay for it/ getting an earful from your insurer.

5. Sand flies are bloody horrible. Their bites are like mosquito bites, but they're itchier and last twice as long. What's worse is it's hard to recognise the little buggers, so just make sure you've got repellent. Abel Tasman is full of them, and they are known to frequent the South Island far more than the North, with most visitors to Milford Sound leaving with at least a couple of nips. 

6. The weather in New Zealand is almost completely unpredictable. Wellington is windy, Franz Josef is wet and everywhere gets crazy cold in winter. We arrived in what was meant to be spring and were freezing for a fortnight. Morino wool is a speciality out here so invest in some thick socks, and take a trip to some of the amazing second-hand shops in Auckland or Wellington. 

7. Free wifi is quite hard to come by, especially in North Island. A lot of the hostels we stayed in used a Global Gossip network which required you pay $4 for 24hour access, or $12 for the week. Do the latter, especially if you're moving from hostel to hostel because you can keep signing in on the same account until your credit is out. 

8. Bars, pubs and restaurants aren't allowed to serve people that appear to be intoxicated. It sounds slightly mental, and completely contradictory, but it's the law and you'll see signs telling you so in every establishment you visit.

Sober faces

9. You don't need to be insured on a vehicle to drive in New Zealand. Sure, you'll be in big trouble if you cause an accident, but for lots of other reasons other than insurance. 

10. New World shop assistants hate it when you mix the pick'n'mix nut codes and don't use seperate bags. Do with this information what you will. 

11. Know your coffee preference. Speciality coffee is a thing in New Zealand, so whether you're getting a caffeine fix from a petrol station or an independent local grinder, ordering 'a coffee' won't fly. I'll take a trim flat white with an extra shot thanks.

12. Book your bus in advance and arrive on time, mainly to avoid becoming really unpopular with your fellow bus travellers, but also because the drivers won't wait; they've got a schedule too. 

13. Don't under estimate the strength of the sun out here. It might feel cold and look cloudy, but if the sun is breaking through it's worth your while putting some sunscream on. The ozone layer is virtually non-existent over the country so skin damage problems are huge, and people burn badly, fast. 

14. A couple of years ago Cadbury changed it's chocolate recipe and started using palm oil instead of the previously used vegetable. This caused an uproar in New Zealand and many people and businesses boycotted Cadbury. The number one chocolate brand in the country now is Whittakers, and it's ridiculously good.

15. Maori people welcome one another by touching foreheads rather than the customary western handshake. Embrace it.

You learn a new thing everyday, right?

L, L & A. Xx 

Abel Tasman National Park, South Island, New Zealand

Abel Tasman is beautiful. It's also huge, and working out how to see it is a bit of a minefield.  

Do you hike or kayak or canyon? Do you go one day, or two, or three? Do you camp or stay in a hut or use the water taxis to shuttle you to and fro? Here's my lowdown:

There's three 'hubs' from which the majority of travellers start and finish their trips to the park: Motueka, Kaiteriteri and Marahau. 

The main buses will take you to Motueka and you can stay at the Happy Apple for $23 a night, from there the Abel Tasman water taxi company can collect you ready for the tour. Kaiteriteri is similar, and there is a small high street with a supermarket for stocking up on lunch supplies, as well as a couple of hostels. Kaiteriteri has a lovely beach too, voted top ten in the world by The Guardian no less. Alternatively, hitch or jump on the local bus ($10) to Marahau which is the gateway to the park. 

We stayed in Marahau at The Barn for $30 a night in a four bed dorm. I'd recommend the place, especially in high season when the outside barbecue is surrounded by happy campers. There's a café that serves awesome but expensive seafood just up the road, or you can grab a gourmet burger from the Fat Tui for $12-$15 which I'd highly recommend. 

There's next to no supplies in Marahau though so stock up before you arrive (we definitely didn't and had to basically beg the shop owner to sell us bread.) 

Marahau 

So now you know where you're starting, how will you see the park?

Water taxis 

Abel Tasman Aquataxis run daily timetables, starting from Marahau and heading all the way up the park dropping people off before turning round and picking people up again on the way back down. You pay according to how far you're going. We alighted at Onetahuti and the one-way trip cost $42 per person. 

We're on a boat! (Sort of...)

Travelling by water taxi you can walk/kayak as far as you like: they can drop you or collect you from points of your choosing. On our boat their were some people doing 3hour walks back to Marahau and others spending three nights camping in the park. The drivers are great and stop occasionally to explains points of interest including Split Apple rock and the colonies of sealions that populate the rocks around the bays of the park.

Sea kayaking 

There's several kayaking companies so shop around. Trips vary in time, from half day to 2 day expeditions. Alternatively you can hire a boat and go it alone for about $70 per person which includes brief tuition from the instructors. Many people kayak for one day, stay in the park and walk for another. Others walk a half day and kayak a half day, you can tailor make it around you. Kahu kayaks were highly recommended and run a daily 3-hour kayak from Anchorage bay at noon that takes a convoy of boats to Adele Island to listen to the birdsong before visiting the Split Apple and returning to Marahau ($30-$50). 

Hiking

The best thing about hiking is it's free and great for your bum. The paths are really well signposted, even we didn't get lost, and offer two different routes: high and low tide. At low tide you can cross some of the bays via splits of sand which cuts down the journey time. 

We walked from Onetahuti to Anchorage on the first day which is meant to take about 6 hours. We did it in 4.5hours, but then we are pretty quick. The hikes are beautiful, giving you unbeatable views of the bays and the forest. 

There's swing bridges and waterfalls around each corner and the narrow path snakes precariously close to the edge to ensure you're able to see everything. 

Sleeping

There are official huts at each bay along the park, each sleeping between 8-12 people. You'll need to book to advance to take advantage of the toliets and running water though, at about $32pp per night. Nothing else is provided so you'll need cooking equipment an sleeping bags. Campsites are also available which you also need to book in advance. 

There is one hostel in the park in the shape of Aquapackers in Anchorage bay. We stayed here and paid $75 pp for a hot BBQ dinner, breakfast, a warm dorm bed, hot shower and bottomless tea and coffee. 

The only think you need to supply is your booze. Wave at the team from the beach and they'll come and pick you up. The boat sleeps about 20 so book in advance and be ready to party. 

My advice? Shop around and if there doesn't seem to be an option you want, ask. Chances are the companies will cater. I'm not usually one for hiking but the views bad it worth every step.

L, L & A. Xx 

Wellington, North Island, New Zealand.

I loved windy Wellington. The little city had such a cool and quirky vibe to it. It was sort of a cross between Brighton, Shoreditch and Malibu; all kitsch cafés and cocktail bars, hillside residences, stunning beaches with people paddle boarding offshore, live music and hipsters. 

Here's how we spent our few days:

Day 1

We headed to Wellington for Labour Weekend, which is a bank holiday in New Zealand. Accommodation prices were up and buses were booking fast, so we were sure to book ahead. We booked our accommodation through nakedbus because it was the cheapest we could find. At $23 per night we found ourselves in a 6 bed dorm at Base hostel, which is located at the end of Courtney Place (one of main party strips in town.) The hostel was huge, the beds were squeaky, the showers communal and the residents long-term. People come to Wellington and stay in Wellington, and it's not hard to see why. The three other travellers in our dorm were long-stays, with Craig entering his 7th week in the same bunk bed. The huge communal kitchen and eating area were a bit of a draw, along with the happy hour prices in the downstairs bar, which put g&t's at $4 from 8-10pm. 

Nights out in Wellington start late. We headed out at 10ish and weren't pissed enough for the local Friday night crowd. We were also really under dressed in our vans and hoodies, but our choice was pretty minimal considering the sub-zero conditions. Nonetheless we headed to Mishmosh, ordered the $10 cocktails and danced on the coldest dance floor in the history of the world. It was a cool bar, and is definitely one of the busiest on the Courtney Place strip. We found ourselves in a strange club until 2ish (I was carried there by a Kiwi), and stumbled home in time to wake the whole dorm up with my mini torch and our incessant giggles. 

Day 2

Walk along the promenade and through Oriental bay. It's beautiful and will remind you of Malibu or California or somewhere really warm.

It's worth doing the hike up to Mount Victoria. The sun was shining for us and the 30minute walk to the top, (there's a small chance we took a wrong turning) caused Lou to get a SULA and us all to be pretty pleased we'd opted to be scandily clad tourists for the day. The view is bloody great. 

We headed to Cuba Street for lunch, to Southern Cross, a highly recommended pub the far end of the hipster hangout. 

Southern Cross

It had one of the best beer gardens I've been in and decor that wouldn't have been out of place in Brixton. A huge jug of coffee cost just $3 and we got toasted wraps for $8 each. With live music at the weekends, free BBQs on Fridays and Saturdays and an array of other events running throughout the week, Southern Cross is my top recommendation for this city. 

Lunch!

Take your time to stroll down Cuba street and visit some of it's awesome vintage shops, as well as it's arty boutiques and craft stores. If you've an eye for a bargain you won't be disappointed. 

We ate dinner at The Laundry for $20 a head. Try the gumbo if you ever visit; the African style fish rice stew was amazing. 

For cocktails we headed to Good Luck bar, where the cocktails were BOGOF so we got 6 between us for £7 each - not bad though the place lacked atmosphere and you might be better off paying more and going to the famous Matterhorn which is two doors down. 

Live music at Southern Cross topped off our night, though you could party til the early hours on this town if you're pockets were full and you were fully tanked before heading out.

Day 3

The Sunday market is a definite must do, mainly for the cheap fresh fruit and veg on offer but also for the whitebait fritters, great coffee and the best dumplings I've ever eaten. Head inside for the House of Dumplings stand and follow the crowd for the $2-a-parcel gourmet parcels of gorgeousness. 

If you have time, visit the Te Papa museum. We didn't and we should've done because everyone raved about it. 

For brunch, head to Sweet Mothers Place on Courtney Place. The small cafe with outside seating was constantly busy and served up a great South American inspired menu complete with thick milkshakes, black bean nachos and huge toasted wraps. 

Moving on... If you're staying at Base or YHA, there is a shuttle bus that runs from outside the latter to the ferry terminal for just $3. Get on it, because the walk is so much longer than you think.

We're crossing the channel on the interislander ($52 pp), so next you hear from us we'll be in the South Island! 

Hello hangover.

L, L & A. X 

Roturua, North Island, New Zealand.

Roturua is a sleepy little town about 4 hours south of Auckland which is infamous for the pungent eggy smell that lingers throughout the town. It's built on volcanic land, and every street bubbles and hisses with volcanic sounds and smells, steam rises from within the flower beds and creates stunning natural spas that can reach over 45 degrees.

 Here's how to see it:

Sleeping.

We stayed at Rock Solid backpackers (formerly Crank) for $23 a night. We stayed in a four bed dorm without a fourth person which was ideal. There's a large shared kitchen, 2 communal areas where you can get access to the free wifi and shared bathrooms. You'll also get cheap entry to the rock climbing wall in the basement which can be viewed through the glass in the too lounge ($12). Despite being almost full the hostel lacked atmosphere; we're not sure why. We were going to move over to Base hostel on the edge of town, but the beds were literally the most comfortable we'd slept in all trip. Go for the beds alone. 

Eating & drinking.

New Zealand is expensive, and it quickly became to clear to us that one of the things we can save money on is food. A lot of people cook their meals in the hostels, and hostel kitchens have plenty of storage for guests. 

If you are eating out in Roturua head to Eat street, a sectioned off part of turakawi street. The pig and whistle is a bustling pub famed for its locally brewed beer, skinners ale. We had double g&t's for $9 each, not bad considering the house gin is Tangueray. The food looked amazing, huge portions, but was pricey so we avoided. 

For cheap Japanese head to Kia Ora Japan for $10 lunch and dinner, or there's Indian express which also boasts $10 curry options.

We ended up eating at Lava, which is the bar-cum-nightclub attached to Base hostel. It was quiz night (Tuesday) so we ordered chicken ceaser salads for $10 a piece and shared chips. This place is clearly the backpackers hotspot in town, though it fell a little flat due to the distinct lack of pace/people. 

For a good morning coffee, take a walk along the lakeside to Third Place Cafè. The coffees strong and the breakfasts are famous about town. Lotus café is another affordable lunch spot. Don't be put off by its canteen style offering, the food is tasty, the cakes were great and it's cheap. 

The view from Third Place

Every Wednesday night Peter Pans throws a party for the backpackers in town. There's a free BBQ, some free drinks and the chance to hang out with hot rafting instructors... Could be worse. 

Exploring.

Roturua is renowned for two things: natural hot springs and living Maori villages, so we set out to experience both on our first day.

Take the number two Polytech bus from the centre of town ($2.50) and ask the driver to point out the stop for Whakawerawera. The living village is the original and had been welcoming guests since the 1800's. It's also the most affordable, at $35 per person it's almost half the price of the other villages. We didn't join a tour, instead we took the map and went exploring.

The Maori are a very spiritual tribe, proud of their heritage and their traditions; and the village is a completely transprant insight into that. We ate food cooked in the hangi, which is a natural hot spring, and met the towns local tattoo artist who explained the detailed and intricate nature of Maori tattoos. Keep an eye out for the natural springs which erupt almost every hour, sending water almost 30ft in the air.

There are hot pools throughout roturua, with some hostels and hotels offering guests private spas. To get the full experience it's worth going to one of the larger spas in the town though, so we headed to the Polyensia spa. For $28 per person (additional $5 for towel and locker) we were given access to 7 different spa pools, set at different temperatures ranging from 36-42 degrees. The natural water, paired with the stunning surroundings, made for a really relaxing hour or so (much more than that and you'd turn into a prune.) 

White water rafting was undoubtedly the highlight of Roturua. We booked through Peter Pans (it's worth popping into the store on the corner of Hinemoa Street, the team are brilliant, really good fun, so knowledgeable and beyond helpful), a the three hour trip cost us $75 each. The river, about half an hour out of town, is graded 5 out of 6 on the difficulty scale and features the largest commercially rated waterfall in the world, flowing 7 metres from top to bottom. 

The team at Kaitiaki kitted us all out in wet suits, fleeces, boots and jackets to try and stave off the cold, then the group was split between the convoy of boats on the river. It was awesome, a little hairy in places, but such good fun and the river was beautiful.

Next stop? Taupo. 

L, L and A. Xxx 

Camel safari in Jaisalmer.

If you're not careful you'll find yourself falling in love with Jaisalmer, and end up staying far longer than you planned. Rising from the surrounding desert like a sandcastle, Jaisalmer Fort sits at the centre of the city and it's quite simply, beautiful.

Chai with a view.

The surrounding streets are decorated with havelis, and everywhere you look there are stunning views of the desert stretching as far as the eye can see. It's quieter here; calmer, more laid back. Drink it in, because it's kind of addictive.

Do:

- Stay in the fort.

This is the only living fort in the country so seize the opportunity to stay inside. We stayed at Desert boys guesthouse (1,400rps with free pick-up) and were l so glad we did. A maze of stairways leading to terraces and rooms, the views were spectacular. 

Sunrise on the terrace at Desert Boys 

The restaurant is good too, and it also serves beer. Chai was offered left right and centre and although the wifi was weak, I'd recommend paying a little more for the experience. 

- Ride a camel.

Everyone will offer you a camel safari in Jaisalmer: your tuc tuc driver, the hotel porter, the fruit vendor on the roadside. Shop around, and make sure you know what you want to get out of the tour. There's touristy options which are cheaper, or you can pay a little more for a more authentic 'off the beaten track' experience.

Me and my ride.

We did a whole days riding which in hingsight was a little long. However, cooking lunch over a fire under a tree in the middle of a desert was a pretty cool experience. Our desert guide, Kelu, let Alice and I get involved in making fresh pakora, vegetable curry and chapatis. 

Camping under the stars was definitely an experience too. It was just me and Al on our tour, and we psyched eachother out a bit when the sun went down and the dung beetles started to circle. I've never seen a starry sky like it. We fell asleep watching shooting stars, under the clearest Milky Way. Amazing. 

Having a laugh on the sand dunes

Camels are funny old creatures; so docile and calm. They can drink 50litres of water at a time, which will last them a whole week. At night they sleep for just ten minutes so the guide tied their legs to stop them straying too far. This video is hilarious: 

Driving the jeep back from the dunes was a highlight, as was visiting the isolated villages that live deep in the desert. 

Off-roadin' 

- Beers with a view.

There's rooftop bars everywhere, so make sure you take the time drink in the view with a cold beverage or 4. We had momos at Shiva restaurant, looked out at the fort from Midtown's terrace and made ourselves comfortable at desert boys. Beers are between 150-200rps after tax. 

- Bhang lassis.

The lassi shop by the fort entrance is known for its Bhang lassis and cookies. You can adjust the strength accordingly... Then just enjoy the ride. 

Back to Delhi we go.

L&A xx