Swimming with reef sharks in Wayalailai, Fiji.

Wayalailai Ecohaven resort was second island we visited on our tour of paradise. Located slap-bang in the middle of the Yasawa Island group, it's famed for it's breath-taking viewpoint and authentic Fijian hospitality.
From the sea it's far greener than Barefoot, with steep cliffs rising high above the huts that make up the resort. The water is rougher, and the coral slightly further out to sea, but it's worth donning a snorkel and braving the swim; the schools of fish were huge.

Accomodation 
We stayed in a 5 bed dorm, which was big and comfortable, but had a thatched roof which attracted the biggest spiders I've ever seen. We slept under mosquito nights terrified of bed bugs and other creepy crawlies. The water is a little hit and miss on Wayalailai, the tanks need to be changed every few hours so you often find yourself waiting for showers.

Eating
We were pretty spoilt on Barefoot when it came to food: three course meals and great gluten-free options. Wayalailai was a little lacking when it came to food, and I'm not sure any of us really ate much for the three days we were there. Cereal and fruit for breakfast, a buffet at lunch which was replicated for the evening buffet. Salad, vegetables and a meat dish; no gluten free or veggie options, so make sure if you choose to stay here you bring snacks! There's no happy hour which was a shame, but the drinks behind the bar were cheap and they did make a good G&T.

Activities 
The activities were what really made our experience on Wayalailai. There was loads to do, more than either of the other islands that we visited. On the first day we made our own seashell bracelets down on the beach with some local women from the village.

We then hiked up to the viewpoint which was nothing short of breathtaking. The walk took about an hour and we sweated more than we thought humanly possible, but it was fantastic and worth every step.

On Sunday everyone was invited to dress up nice and visit the church in the village. It was a great experience (if a little long) and the singing was exceptional, real gospel.

On the morning of our final day we went snorkelling with reef sharks. It was one of the best things I did during my whole three month adventure. At one point there were 6 or 7 sharks circling underneath me, and although it was terrifying, it was just incredible.

We had an interesting few days on the island. The activities were great, and we did some amazing things, however the food and accommodation let Wayalailai down. If you're okay with roughing it a little bit, then you'll like it here; it's far more authentic than the other islands, especially with the village nearby. 

On to the next... L, L and A. x

20 things you can buy for 50p in India.

The humble 50p. In the UK it'll buy you 2 Freddo's if you're lucky and perhaps a prawn cocktail sandwich in the reduced to clear. In India, it'll stretch just that little bit further... Here's some examples to name but a few.

1. 2 hot glasses of sweet, milky masala chai. 

2. A shot of Blue Riband gin.

3. 2 bottles of drinking water (make sure you always check the seal, and if they say 'normal' water they mean 'warm', so specify you want the cold stuff.) 

4. A small kingfisher (or a large one if you're lucky.)

5. A pack of postcards from child sellers outside just about every temple, fort, palace or general tourist attraction in Rajahstan. 

6. 2 packets of Spanish Tango Tomato crisps which we've found taste exactly like prawn cocktail and are the best train/ bus/ boat snack ever.

7. A large lassi at either Lassiwala, Jaipur or blue lassi in Varanasi. They were the best we tried all trip. 

8. 6 cups of coffee at the Indian Cafe, Jaipur.

9. Half a day's bicycle hire in Hampi.

10. 5 glasses of sugarcane juice, squeezed in front of you on most shop corners in Mumbai.

11. 2 adapter plugs in Varanasi.

12. 5 wraps of still-hot bhel puri, mixed in front of you in a silver urn and spiced to your liking. 

13. 3-5 hot roti/ chapati, from just about every restaurant you'll ever visit in India. 

14. A bounty (or twix, or snickers, or if you're lucky a 4-fingered kit kat.) 

15. Tiger balm.

16. Jewellery: wooden earrings and rings, plaited bracelets, silver anklets you name it. 

17. A pot of nail varnish (just about any brand you can think of.)

18. A mudbath in Arambool.

19. A ride around Colaba in Mumbai, in a traditional Mumbai taxi. 

20. 5 'kisses' from Laxmi  the elephant at the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi. 

Visiting Palolem off-season...

...is such a tease.

The beautiful beach is dotted with tourists, but only so many that you can still find a secluded spot that makes you feel like you're in your own little part of paradise. The bars and restaurants that line the seafront are starting open up, offering cheap local booze, the freshest of seafood and incredible views of the ocean. 

Not a bad view for our morning run.

The touristy shops that line the path down to the beach are fully stocked, and the hawkers are keen to sell you their wares to ensure some low-season sales. But, it's quiet. A little too quiet. The famed beach shake are starting to pop up along the shore, but most are under construction, and many of the bars are only just opening their doors. The nightlife is quiet, with 24hr cocktails available but the only real revellers being large groups of Israeli travellers or couples enjoying some alone time by the sea. 

This place is pregnant with possibility and we left after 2 nights vowing to return once it has started to get into the swing of things.

Not that we didn't keep ourselves 'busy'.

Fernandes was our favourite beach bar. Drinks were cheap (90rps g&t), whilst the seafood was crazy affordable and purchased fresh from the buckets bought in by the fishermen every evening. 

Fresh squid for 80p was a highlight, as was the stuffed mackerel (180rps). 

For the best coffee in town, visit Cafe Express on the corner of the mainstreet. You'll pay a pound a cup but it's worth it. 

The iced shakes are amazing too (better with vodka) and the menu is vast; catering to everyone with Tibetan momos, Israeli hummus wraps and large Thali to share. The staff are lovely too, and you can tell by the excellent music choice that this place goes off peak-season. 

We stayed at Printnams bungalows for 800rps a night. I thought it was quite pricey for what it was out of season, but there were several travellers staying there so we stuck around for the company. Clean room, good sized bed with mosquito net and a hot shower, wifi in the most places; it did the job. 

Friends stayed in Geuros and felt it had more of a travellers vibe. Far cheaper too at 300rps a night; so that's worth checking out. 

We ate at Baba's little Italy, which is one of the many restaurants offering pay-per-kilo seafood on the Main Street. Our kingfish tandoori was great, as was the vegetable sizzler which came out of the kitchen still smoking, served on a hot stone. It was pricey though, topping 500rps for the two of us. 

Goa is beautiful. It's lush green landscape and picturesque beaches make it a place to linger, and explore. 

We'll return next week to take it all in, but for now we head to Hampi on an overnight bus a little browner than when we arrived and excited for the sun-soaked days ahead.

L&A xx