Falling in love with Fiji: Barefoot Island.

Just three hours on the Yasawa Flyer, and you'll find yourself stepping onto the beautiful Barefoot Island to the soundtrack of the traditional Fijian 'welcome song'. Barefoot Island is everything you imagine Fiji to be: deserted white sandy beaches, clear turquoise seas, coral abundant with fish ever colour of the rainbow and sunshine. Lots and lots of sunshine.

Barefoot Island has two beaches about 100 metres apart: sunrise and sunset. This means you can follow the sun throughout the day, watching it rise over the horizon on one side of the island, and drink sundowners in the beach bar as you see it dip down the other side of paradise.

Accommodation
We stayed in a 4 bed 'bure' right on the beach. Clean, comfortable and private, it was pretty perfect. Cracks in the shutters gave us views over sunrise beach, and the cooling evening winds kept the mossys away. Toilets and showers were just across the path but were well lit in the evenings and hot water was available 24/7.

Food
Fresh fruit, pancakes and coffee are on the menu every morning in the simple continental breakfast  buffet. At lunch you'll sit down to a pasta based meal, that's pretty bloody tasty but a little carb-heavy for mid-day; request gluten free if you struggle like us. The evenings were the culinary highlight, with a three course, al-a-carte meal served every night in the beachside restaurant.

Soup to start, then mains including chicken curry and beef stir-fry. For afters there is always cake, and who doesn't love cake. Happy hours take place every day from 6pm, and you can get afternoon tea (which is literally just tea and coffee) at 4pm in the restaurant every day.

Activities
The staff on Barefoot Island were literally the friendlies people I've ever met; always bending over backwards to help and so keen to make sure everyone is having the best time. Barefoot is small though, so activities are limited, but the island runs a programme every day so there is always something to do.

The snorkelling was top notch. Hire your equipment from the shop for $5 per half-day and swim from one beach, round the headland, to the other side. It's beautiful.
A brief 20 minute hike into the island's jungle and you'll find yourself at a pretty impressive viewpoint, overlooking manta ray island opposite.
Every day the dive team offer 'pool splash' opportunities for those that are keen to try out diving but unable to afford the full course.

We got kitted up in all the gear and paddled around in the shallows of the beach for a half an hour; it was great fun. Harder than I thought it would be, and clearly not something that someone with a lung condition should be doing. But, I'm glad we tried it.
Volleyball matches are played every day at 5.30pm, and you can join the sunset tubing if you fancy a drink on the water.

We loved Barefoot; it was where our love affair with Fiji started. The people, the place, the food, it was top-notch and I can't recommend it enough.

The best hostels in New Zealand.

New Zealand is really well set up for backpackers. There's so many hostels to choose from at each stop it's hard to know which are the best bunk beds in town. Fear not, I've done the research and would recommend checking in to the below...

First, some advice:

Wifi isn't free in a lot of new Zealand's hostels, particularly up north. Many of them use pay-to-use networks which require regular top ups which, although can handily by done via your card, really start to add up. We were paying $4 for 24hr access to the Global Gossip network. You can buy a 7 day pass for $12 which I would recommend because you can keep signing in at your next stop.

Key deposits are popular, ranging from $10-20 per key. You can pay on card for these but it's handy to have cash, and I'd advise only taking as many keys as are necessary - we'd get one between the three of us.

Label your food. People stay for weeks in these hostels and really start to make themselves at home. Make sure your stuff doesn't get lost in the fridge by clearly labelling. This'll also ensure your stuff isn't chucked out during the weekly fridge clean.

Where to stay.

Roturua: Rock Solid.

Rock solid is a huge hostel, ideally located in the centre of town just minutes from the bus stop and round the corner from the main restaurant/bar strip. Set across two floors, it boasts a large kitchen, two lounges, communal bathrooms, a DVD room and free wifi. The lounge overlooks an indoor climbing wall below where you'll receive a 20% discount as guests. This place has loads of potential and is set up to be a great hostel, however the atmosphere fell a little flat when we were there. The main reason for my recommendation? Rock solid had the comfiest beds we slept on in our month in NZ. $26 per night, 4-bed dorm communal bathroom.

Taupo: Taupo urban retreat.

The large 16 bed dorm at the Urban Retreat is located in the roof of the wooden chalet-style building. It's social,  in an excellent location, offers $5 chilli every evening, cheap bike hire, a DVD room and free computers in reception. The bar is the cheapest happy hour in town with pitchers of beer for $12 and g&t's for four. Wifi is extra, $4 for 24hours or $12 for a week's pass on global gossip (see above). The staff were really friendly, there's a large garden area for al fresco dinner and a free phone to check the status of our skydive while you're there. $23 per night, 16 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Wellington: Base.

I didn't want to recommend staying at Base, because it's a chain that is everywhere and it's set up reflects that: packages for weekly stays, meals for $3 every night, tours operated from the hostels, fines for drinking in the room etc.etc. But Base was the cheapest place we could find in Wellington and we actually enjoyed our three night stay. Location wise you can't really beat it, as it sits at the end of Courtney Place. Set across five floors, Base attracts long stayers and our three roommates were all staying in the city and looking for work (Craig had been staying in the same bunk for 7 weeks.) Socially though this was one of the better places we stayed; it was buzzy at most hours of the day/night, the kitchen was packed at meal times, there's a bar downstairs with happy hour from 8-10pm and, despite the squeaky beds, it was comfortable and the showers were hot. $23 per night, 4 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Marahau (Abel Tasman): The Barn.

In the summer The Barn is a huge camping and caravaning site, spreading across a number of fields and overlooking the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park. We were there off-season but would still recommend it, despite the slightly inflated pricing. We shared a 4-bed dorm which had recently been renovated. It was clean, warm and comfortable (no bunk beds either!) The large communal area boasts a huge DVD room, a big kitchen and a free phone. Toliets and showers are in outside blocks but were remarkably mosquito-free and the showers were hot. The shop stocks over-priced must-haves for your trip into the park including wine and beers, they also rent camping gear and will help out with booking your trip into the park. There's luggage storage too, for a dollar a day, but the water taxi guys will store this for free so I'd do that... $30 per night, 4 bed dorm communal bathroom.

Nelson: Paradiso.

We were pretty gutted to have only been here for one night. The hostel was probably one of the best we stayed in, and we could have stayed put. The pool and hot tub were definitely part of the attraction, along with free breakfast, free soup at 6pm, free wifi and clean, comfortable rooms. The place had an awesome vibe about it, with spontaneous games of volleyball taking place every now and again and a busy, communal kitchen area. $26 per night, 4 bed dorm en-suite bathroom.

Franz Josef: Chataeu Franz.

We had four nights in Franz Josef and chose Chateau Franz as our temporary home. Sit Cedric's is an independant chain of hostels which are spreading across the South Island. They've got a refreshing approach to hosteling, are fun, affordable and don't have the stingy attitude that the successful, large chains do. Wifi was free, breakfast was also free, soup was served (for free) at 1pm every day accompanied by hot rolls and breads from the bakery. The DVD room is big and busy, the hot tub is open until 9 every day, and over the weekends and during the summer the fire pit is lit and BBQs take place. Benjamin, the manager, has big plans for the place, telling us about climbing walls and extensions. I couldn't really recommend here more. $25 a night, 4 bed en-suite.

Queenstown: Southern Laughter 

We stayed here, and I can't not recommend it because it was perfect for us: great location, affordable, free soup, free wifi, hot showers etc. Having stayed at the other Sir Cedric's hostel in Franz Josef, we were able to secure a good rate for our five night stint. Beds were comfy, kitchen was big and tea was free. There's a great roof terrace which gets sun most of the day too. The only downside is that it's not Nomads and I fear it won't ever be.

$23 per night, 3 bed communal bathroom. 

Queenstown: Nomads

We didn't stay here because it was expensive, and it really is compared to other hostels in town. Thing is, these guys get away with the inflated pricing because it is the best place to stay if you want to see the best of Queenstown. It's based in the centre of town in a modem multi-storey building, and it's where people go and end up extending because they're not ready to leave. 

$30+ per night 

Christchurch, South Island, New Zealand.

We cheated in Christchurch and stayed with my dad's oldest friend, Tom, for our two night stay. 

That does mean that in terms of recommendations etc, this blog is pretty light. That said, we did spent a day in the city and were able to take a look at the massive amount of rebuilding work that has taken place since the earthquake in 2012, and the work that is still to be done.

So many people told us we wouldn't like Christchurch. They said it was a soul-less building site. It can't be denied that parts of it did feel eerie; rubble still lines the roads and everywhere restart and rebuild projects are underway. Souvenirs relating to the quake are readily available, museums and exhibitions are open to peruse. 

Re:start mall sits right by the memorial bridge in the centre of town. It's made up of a group of old industrial crates housing boutique clothing shops, souvenir vendors, book stores and independent coffee shops. Go, it's a very cool place. 

Up the road is C1 coffee shop, which backs onto the cinema (you walk through a sliding bookcase.) The coffee is great the brunch looked incredible and you can order a 'burger pod' which is delivered to your table via old pharmaceutical tubing that snakes across the ceiling. 

Akaroa is about 90minutes out is Christchurch by car and takes you over the beautiful Darles Pass. On the way back, take the less scenic route and stop in at the local vineyards along the road. 

We visited The Farm, which boasts, along with an award-winning Pinot, the second oldest building in New Zealand (which closely resembles a cowshed...) 

Our final day in New Zealand was spent at Addington Races in the sunshine. We drank bubbles, snuck in gin and all lost money on horses with silly names. 

It's been an amazing month, full of the highest highs at 15,000ft and the lowest lows in Nelson Hostpital. The country's beauty is unrivalled. It is clean, calm, spacious and there to be explored.

Sun, sea, sand and cocktails are calling though... Fiji here we come. 

15 things you need to know if you're travelling around New Zealand.

1. Most places don't accept British driving licenses as a form of ID, so you'll need to take your passport out with you if you're drinking. That said, even if you're not drinking a lot of establishments must ID you and ensure you're of age to allow you on the premises, so it's worth carrying it with you. 

2. Bookme.co.nz is a deal website similar to groupon that can save you a shed-load of money when you're travelling in New Zealand. From offers on food and drink to hugely discounted Milford sound boat cruises and bungee-jumps, it's worth browsing the site before you book anything. 

The ice bar is half price on bookme 

3. Spirits (liquor) can't be purchased from supermarkets or newsagents, you need to go to a designated liquor store to buy the stronger stuff. We were pretty partial to the Park Lane premix g&t's; 6 for $12.

4. Emergency healthcare is free to British citizens under a reciprocal agreement between the two countries. So, if like me you find yourself needing an air ambulance in the middle of a national park, you can get the healthcare you require without worrying about how the hell you'll ever pay for it/ getting an earful from your insurer.

5. Sand flies are bloody horrible. Their bites are like mosquito bites, but they're itchier and last twice as long. What's worse is it's hard to recognise the little buggers, so just make sure you've got repellent. Abel Tasman is full of them, and they are known to frequent the South Island far more than the North, with most visitors to Milford Sound leaving with at least a couple of nips. 

6. The weather in New Zealand is almost completely unpredictable. Wellington is windy, Franz Josef is wet and everywhere gets crazy cold in winter. We arrived in what was meant to be spring and were freezing for a fortnight. Morino wool is a speciality out here so invest in some thick socks, and take a trip to some of the amazing second-hand shops in Auckland or Wellington. 

7. Free wifi is quite hard to come by, especially in North Island. A lot of the hostels we stayed in used a Global Gossip network which required you pay $4 for 24hour access, or $12 for the week. Do the latter, especially if you're moving from hostel to hostel because you can keep signing in on the same account until your credit is out. 

8. Bars, pubs and restaurants aren't allowed to serve people that appear to be intoxicated. It sounds slightly mental, and completely contradictory, but it's the law and you'll see signs telling you so in every establishment you visit.

Sober faces

9. You don't need to be insured on a vehicle to drive in New Zealand. Sure, you'll be in big trouble if you cause an accident, but for lots of other reasons other than insurance. 

10. New World shop assistants hate it when you mix the pick'n'mix nut codes and don't use seperate bags. Do with this information what you will. 

11. Know your coffee preference. Speciality coffee is a thing in New Zealand, so whether you're getting a caffeine fix from a petrol station or an independent local grinder, ordering 'a coffee' won't fly. I'll take a trim flat white with an extra shot thanks.

12. Book your bus in advance and arrive on time, mainly to avoid becoming really unpopular with your fellow bus travellers, but also because the drivers won't wait; they've got a schedule too. 

13. Don't under estimate the strength of the sun out here. It might feel cold and look cloudy, but if the sun is breaking through it's worth your while putting some sunscream on. The ozone layer is virtually non-existent over the country so skin damage problems are huge, and people burn badly, fast. 

14. A couple of years ago Cadbury changed it's chocolate recipe and started using palm oil instead of the previously used vegetable. This caused an uproar in New Zealand and many people and businesses boycotted Cadbury. The number one chocolate brand in the country now is Whittakers, and it's ridiculously good.

15. Maori people welcome one another by touching foreheads rather than the customary western handshake. Embrace it.

You learn a new thing everyday, right?

L, L & A. Xx 

What should women wear when travelling in India?

How women travellers should dress in India is an ongoing discussion. It's the question I've been asked most since I've been out here and the issue that Alice and I struggled most with before we came. So, here's a brief overview in relation to the places we visited.

Before I begin, though, it should be said that how you dress is completely down to you, and what you are comfortable with. At the end of the day you are a travelling woman in India, you are going to get lots of looks from locals (both male and female) and will attract attention by just being there. How you dress will only affect the sort of attention you receive. Alice and I didn't once feel threatened on our trip. Yes, people looked at us, and often we did flash a little more knee/shoulder than is probably encouraged; but we did so under the clear understanding that we were going to generate that kind of reaction and were comfortable with that fact.

North India

Delhi
Delhi is a crazy place. It might be smaller than Mumbai with a smaller population, but it feels that bit more chaotic. To us, it felt dirtier and more intrusive. Make sure you have a shawl with you at all times and I would keep your shoulders and knees covered, just to avoided the attention. You can buy trousers for 100rps in most of the bazaars, so stock up at the beginning of the trip.
If you visit any temples you will have to cover up, but it is worth donning the same garb for any palace or fort visits; people will ask to take photos of you in Delhi.

Varanasi
Varanasi is a holy city, 300 funerals take place here every day. It's hot and humid and intense and you'll sweat more than you ever thought was physically possible, but keep covered up at all times here; just out of respect.

Agra
Being a tourist destination, the Taj Mahal is full of people from every corner of the globe. You could wear anything you liked here, really, so it's up to you whether or not you want to observe the more conservative dress code. We did, because it felt more respectful.

Jaipur
Jaipur is a little more chilled out, so it is at your discretion how much flesh you show. Keep a scarf with you and just be respectful. It is worth noting that a lot of people living in Jaipur aren't as used to westerners than those in the big cities; Jaipur is huge and quite poor in parts, so just be aware that you might attract a lot of attention.

Jaisalmer
I got my shoulders out in Jaisalmer for the first time. It is a small city, and felt that more chilled. We ensured we always had something to cover us up, but were a bit more relaxed on the dress code. Just, as a mentioned, be aware of the level of attention you might attract while you are there. Many of the camel safaris offer village visits; I would recommend keeping covered up for these, just to avoid creating anymore havoc than your presence alone will inevitably cause.

South India

We only visited a very small part of South India, so you may need to look around for advice on how to dress in Kerala, Chennai and beyond.

Goa
Goa is a bit like a beach resort. People walk through the streets in their bikinis here, especially in Palolem. We didn't go that far, but shorts and dresses were fine. Bikinis are all good on the beach, though I would recommend finding a slightly quieter patch of sand and maybe tucking yourselves behind a boat or something similar to avoid drawing a crowd. A lot of people told us to cover up on the local buses, however we found that we didn't draw any additional attention so carried on as we were (keeping a shawl or scarf with us at all times).

Hampi
Hampi is a very sacred place. If you are visiting any of the active temples make sure you cover up; chances are you will be asked to by the tourist information guys if you don't. The rest of the place you are fine; Hampi draws a lot of domestic tourists to it's ruins so just be aware that you might stick out a little bit and get a few looks from other Indians.

Mumbai
Dress according to your activity and location. If you're visiting the slums be respectful and conservative and consider that people aren't that used to scantily clad western women wandering around. In Colaba we felt quite comfortable in dresses with shawls, though we did put trousers on at night. Be aware of the Bollywood talent scouts that patrol the strip outside Leopold's; it is more than likely that you'll be scouted to be extra in an up and coming film if you're a woman and you're western and you're arms or legs are exposed (we were scouted within a minute of getting out of the cab!)

My main advice would be to stick within your comfort zone. Alice and I felt comfortable in Goa wearing summer clothes, but for much of Rajahstan we kept our shoulders and knees covered. Understand that you are already attracting a lot of attention, and what you wear will only add or subtract from that.

L&A x 

3 days in Hampi.

Where to stay?

Unbeknownst to us we arrived in Hampi in time for the Navarti festival season, which is an Indian holiday and therefore saw us join the thousands of tourists (both domestic and backpackers) who had chosen to descend upon the ancient town for the weekend. Almost every hotel  and guesthouse on the bazaar side of the river was full. We'd planned to cross the river and stay on the other side where alcohol is legal, but high tides stopped the boats for crossing. 

We met Will, a lone traveller from Virginia, at the bus station in Paniji and ended up sharing a room at Mayurums homestay for 1,200rps per night. Pricey, but the lowest we could wangle considering the holidays. Ravi, the owner, was more than obliging and the room was actually great, with a large bed, hot shower and good wifi. 

Netra guesthouse, on the edge of the bazaar, has cheap rooms and an awesome rooftop restaurant so that's defintaly worth a look.

On the other side of the river, the laughing Buddha is a hotspot that offers riverside bungalows for those willing to pay a little more.

If you're budgeting, head to sunny's guesthouse or further down the road to Shantis bungalows.

Exploring Hampi.

Day one we explored the town on foot and soaked up the infectious festival atmosphere. Ruins decorate your every line of sight in Hampi, there is no escaping them. Standing tall in the centre of it all is the Virupaksha temple with its intricate carvings and high walls. Cover yourself up if you visit, and expect to pay 20rps entry. Keep an eye out for Lakshmi, the temple elephant, who'll give you a happy slap on the head if you give her a few paper rupees (she wouldn't except coins, clever thing.) Monkeys are everywhere, adding to the 'raiders of the lost ark' feel about the place, and the place is full of people.

On foot you can explore the rock faces that border the town, littered with huge boulders and weathered temple ruins. Scale the stairs to theivandrum temple at the end of the road leading out of Hampi, it's worth it for the view. 

Day two we hired bicycles for 100rps each per day. Scooters are about 200-250rps, however we quite fancied the exercise. The roads are easy to navigate and by going it alone, without a tour guide, you're free to roam and take in as much or as little temple as you like. 

The underground shrine is definitely worth a look, but things do get a little touristy at the main site and you should expect to pay 250rps to enter the elephant stables. My advice? Go it alone, the landscape is unlike anywhere in the world and the surrounding villages are fascinating.

On our second night, the town lit 10,000 candles outside the Virupaksha temple, to mark the start of the Navarati celebrations. 

Family's dressed up in their finest clothes, with the women decorating themselves in highly embellished saris with bells round their ankles and flowers in their hair, and the men wearing crisp new Sherwani. We were honoured to be asked to get involved, and it was amazing standing amongst the candles and watching the procession, led by Lakshmi. 

Day three, the river crossing re-opened. The boat costs between 30-50rps (depending on the boatman...), and takes a matter of minutes. The other side is a little more chilled than the bazaar, alcohol is legal there and Bhang is readily available. We hired cycles again (50rps for the day) and went in search of the nearby lake. It's beautiful, and although the ride nearly killed us (over 5km, uphill, in the midday sun) it was worth the sweatfest.

Ignore the signs warning about crocodiles, they were put up to stop people swimming after a number of incidents in the dam. 

The water's safe and deep, too, making it perfect for cliff jumping. 

Star attraction...

Just be aware that you may quickly become the star attraction as word spreads around the nearby villages that westerners are jumping. There were about 20 pubescent males stood on the cliffs taking pictures by the time we took the plunge. 

We didn't get a chance to visit, but the monkey temple was highly recommended to us as a great place to view sunset on the other side of the river. 

Where to eat?

Netra guesthouse on the bazaar side is a backpackers hub, and serves great food at a reasonable price. The salads we're stand-out, with the 'funky monkey veggie salad' being my recommendation and a steal at 180rps. Breakfast is also good here, and the lazy bar layout makes it a great place to wile away the hours. You can get booze here too, despite the ban, just ask for the 'special' drinks. 

Netra restaurant 

Ravi rose will also get you beers, however you'll pay 250rps per can which is really quite expensive. Bhang lassis can also be bought at this rooftop, lazy restaurant. The food was tasty, with Thalis on offer and great stuffed partharas.

On the other side of the river, laughing Buddha is the place to be. Service is very slow, but drinks are readily available, the menu is vast, and the view is great. 

Chilling at the Laughing Buddha

And the rest...

We got massages at the Lotus salon, adjacent to Gantapi restaurant. A full hour, full body Ayurvedic, cost 600rps per person and was literally the best thing ever after a 12hour sleeper bus. 

Yoga classes are on offer at Gopi's guesthouse for 150rps each. 

I loved hampi and could have stayed for days. 3 is enough to see the place, but people linger here and it's clear to see why. You can just keep exploring.

L&A x