Abel Tasman National Park, South Island, New Zealand

Abel Tasman is beautiful. It's also huge, and working out how to see it is a bit of a minefield.  

Do you hike or kayak or canyon? Do you go one day, or two, or three? Do you camp or stay in a hut or use the water taxis to shuttle you to and fro? Here's my lowdown:

There's three 'hubs' from which the majority of travellers start and finish their trips to the park: Motueka, Kaiteriteri and Marahau. 

The main buses will take you to Motueka and you can stay at the Happy Apple for $23 a night, from there the Abel Tasman water taxi company can collect you ready for the tour. Kaiteriteri is similar, and there is a small high street with a supermarket for stocking up on lunch supplies, as well as a couple of hostels. Kaiteriteri has a lovely beach too, voted top ten in the world by The Guardian no less. Alternatively, hitch or jump on the local bus ($10) to Marahau which is the gateway to the park. 

We stayed in Marahau at The Barn for $30 a night in a four bed dorm. I'd recommend the place, especially in high season when the outside barbecue is surrounded by happy campers. There's a café that serves awesome but expensive seafood just up the road, or you can grab a gourmet burger from the Fat Tui for $12-$15 which I'd highly recommend. 

There's next to no supplies in Marahau though so stock up before you arrive (we definitely didn't and had to basically beg the shop owner to sell us bread.) 

Marahau 

So now you know where you're starting, how will you see the park?

Water taxis 

Abel Tasman Aquataxis run daily timetables, starting from Marahau and heading all the way up the park dropping people off before turning round and picking people up again on the way back down. You pay according to how far you're going. We alighted at Onetahuti and the one-way trip cost $42 per person. 

We're on a boat! (Sort of...)

Travelling by water taxi you can walk/kayak as far as you like: they can drop you or collect you from points of your choosing. On our boat their were some people doing 3hour walks back to Marahau and others spending three nights camping in the park. The drivers are great and stop occasionally to explains points of interest including Split Apple rock and the colonies of sealions that populate the rocks around the bays of the park.

Sea kayaking 

There's several kayaking companies so shop around. Trips vary in time, from half day to 2 day expeditions. Alternatively you can hire a boat and go it alone for about $70 per person which includes brief tuition from the instructors. Many people kayak for one day, stay in the park and walk for another. Others walk a half day and kayak a half day, you can tailor make it around you. Kahu kayaks were highly recommended and run a daily 3-hour kayak from Anchorage bay at noon that takes a convoy of boats to Adele Island to listen to the birdsong before visiting the Split Apple and returning to Marahau ($30-$50). 

Hiking

The best thing about hiking is it's free and great for your bum. The paths are really well signposted, even we didn't get lost, and offer two different routes: high and low tide. At low tide you can cross some of the bays via splits of sand which cuts down the journey time. 

We walked from Onetahuti to Anchorage on the first day which is meant to take about 6 hours. We did it in 4.5hours, but then we are pretty quick. The hikes are beautiful, giving you unbeatable views of the bays and the forest. 

There's swing bridges and waterfalls around each corner and the narrow path snakes precariously close to the edge to ensure you're able to see everything. 

Sleeping

There are official huts at each bay along the park, each sleeping between 8-12 people. You'll need to book to advance to take advantage of the toliets and running water though, at about $32pp per night. Nothing else is provided so you'll need cooking equipment an sleeping bags. Campsites are also available which you also need to book in advance. 

There is one hostel in the park in the shape of Aquapackers in Anchorage bay. We stayed here and paid $75 pp for a hot BBQ dinner, breakfast, a warm dorm bed, hot shower and bottomless tea and coffee. 

The only think you need to supply is your booze. Wave at the team from the beach and they'll come and pick you up. The boat sleeps about 20 so book in advance and be ready to party. 

My advice? Shop around and if there doesn't seem to be an option you want, ask. Chances are the companies will cater. I'm not usually one for hiking but the views bad it worth every step.

L, L & A. Xx 

The one when I was airlifted to hospital.

For those of you that don't follow me on Instagram, on Thursday night I was airlifted out of Abel Tasman National Park to Nelson General Hospital.  

I'd been having issues for a week or so prior to the incident, as my body struggled to adjust to a New Zealand diet after a month of eating next to nothing in India. We'd walked for 6 hours on Thursday, down through the National Park to a bay called Anchorage where we'd planned to spend the night on a boat hostel. After dinner, everything came to a head and I went to bed around midnight knowing that I wasn't quite right. 

I woke at 2am in pain I'd never experienced before. By 3am I was vomiting and nearly losing consciousness. Alice and Lou sat with me through the whole thing, fetching buckets and meds and people. By 5.30am, there was no improvement and the pain just seemed to be getting worse. 

The hardest part was just not knowing what to do. We were in the middle of the sea, in a park with no road access and medical care was over 2 hours drive away. I was in so much pain I could hardly stand and completely unable to make decisions. Usually I know what to do. I know what I need and how to sort out any problems; but this time I had no idea. I'd never been in so much pain. 

At 6am the skipper carried me onto his speed boat, closely followed by Alice and Lou. Still wrapped in a duvet, Lou held me up for the whole 25minute ride to stop me knocking myself out on the boat. Drama ensued, in ways that only they can tell you, and the two of them witnessed the first perk of the problem in the shape of one of the best sunrises so far. 

Sunrise over Abel Tasman

The ambulance met us at the beach and after I basically told the guy which vein was the only one that would work if he hoped to get a line in, I got the morphine I needed. As soon as that, and the anti-sickness meds, had kicked in, I asked the girls for a selfie and they knew everything was going to be okay.

I've looked better 

The helicopter picked the three of us up from a nearby field and we went on a 10 minute ride over the National Park. Queue perk two of the traumatic episode... The views from the chopper were bloody awesome (...apparently. I was too high to notice.) 

The first thumbs up of the morning 

Things started to improve after we got to Nelson. More painkillers kept the tummy cramps at bay,  the colour returned to my cheeks and after an hour or so I finally warmed up. X-rays showed a huge blockage so I had to bargain with the surgeons and doc to be released (Cum'on it's me after all!) 

Arriving in style

The last few days have been pretty shit but I can now (almost) safely say I am back to normal. I'm not entirely sure what caused the problems, but I'll do everything I can to stop it again. 

The girls were amazing. They told me afterwards how scared they'd been and how tears had happened once they knew they were allowed in the helicopter with me, though i'd had no idea of the chaos going on around me. They were calm throughout (though their version of events is a little of hectic) and knew what I needed. They sat with me from 3am, sounded the alarm when it was clear we needed help, and made the call when I was unable to. I don't know why it always surprises me how well my friends understand my condition, but I was in awe of how well they both coped with the situation and am inexpressibly grateful that they were there.

A couple of days later, I'm on the mend

A reciprocal agreement with New Zealand and the UK meant the emergency response and all my treatment was free (much to the relief of my father), but I'm just thankful this happened here and not in the middle of the Rajahstany desert.

This wasn't the blog post I thought I'd be writing, but I've had many a concerned message from home so wanted to ensure everyone that I'm doing a-okay and thank all those that have been in touch. 

My broken little body soldiers on, just a little more battered and bruised than before.

So much love. L x