Monday, 3 November 2014

Abel Tasman National Park, South Island, New Zealand

Abel Tasman is beautiful. It's also huge, and working out how to see it is a bit of a minefield.  


Do you hike or kayak or canyon? Do you go one day, or two, or three? Do you camp or stay in a hut or use the water taxis to shuttle you to and fro? Here's my lowdown:

There's three 'hubs' from which the majority of travellers start and finish their trips to the park: Motueka, Kaiteriteri and Marahau. 

The main buses will take you to Motueka and you can stay at the Happy Apple for $23 a night, from there the Abel Tasman water taxi company can collect you ready for the tour. Kaiteriteri is similar, and there is a small high street with a supermarket for stocking up on lunch supplies, as well as a couple of hostels. Kaiteriteri has a lovely beach too, voted top ten in the world by The Guardian no less. Alternatively, hitch or jump on the local bus ($10) to Marahau which is the gateway to the park. 


We stayed in Marahau at The Barn for $30 a night in a four bed dorm. I'd recommend the place, especially in high season when the outside barbecue is surrounded by happy campers. There's a cafĂ© that serves awesome but expensive seafood just up the road, or you can grab a gourmet burger from the Fat Tui for $12-$15 which I'd highly recommend. 


There's next to no supplies in Marahau though so stock up before you arrive (we definitely didn't and had to basically beg the shop owner to sell us bread.) 

Marahau 

So now you know where you're starting, how will you see the park?

Water taxis 

Abel Tasman Aquataxis run daily timetables, starting from Marahau and heading all the way up the park dropping people off before turning round and picking people up again on the way back down. You pay according to how far you're going. We alighted at Onetahuti and the one-way trip cost $42 per person. 

We're on a boat! (Sort of...)

Travelling by water taxi you can walk/kayak as far as you like: they can drop you or collect you from points of your choosing. On our boat their were some people doing 3hour walks back to Marahau and others spending three nights camping in the park. The drivers are great and stop occasionally to explains points of interest including Split Apple rock and the colonies of sealions that populate the rocks around the bays of the park.


Sea kayaking 

There's several kayaking companies so shop around. Trips vary in time, from half day to 2 day expeditions. Alternatively you can hire a boat and go it alone for about $70 per person which includes brief tuition from the instructors. Many people kayak for one day, stay in the park and walk for another. Others walk a half day and kayak a half day, you can tailor make it around you. Kahu kayaks were highly recommended and run a daily 3-hour kayak from Anchorage bay at noon that takes a convoy of boats to Adele Island to listen to the birdsong before visiting the Split Apple and returning to Marahau ($30-$50). 


Hiking

The best thing about hiking is it's free and great for your bum. The paths are really well signposted, even we didn't get lost, and offer two different routes: high and low tide. At low tide you can cross some of the bays via splits of sand which cuts down the journey time. 


We walked from Onetahuti to Anchorage on the first day which is meant to take about 6 hours. We did it in 4.5hours, but then we are pretty quick. The hikes are beautiful, giving you unbeatable views of the bays and the forest. 


There's swing bridges and waterfalls around each corner and the narrow path snakes precariously close to the edge to ensure you're able to see everything. 

Sleeping

There are official huts at each bay along the park, each sleeping between 8-12 people. You'll need to book to advance to take advantage of the toliets and running water though, at about $32pp per night. Nothing else is provided so you'll need cooking equipment an sleeping bags. Campsites are also available which you also need to book in advance. 

There is one hostel in the park in the shape of Aquapackers in Anchorage bay. We stayed here and paid $75 pp for a hot BBQ dinner, breakfast, a warm dorm bed, hot shower and bottomless tea and coffee. 


The only think you need to supply is your booze. Wave at the team from the beach and they'll come and pick you up. The boat sleeps about 20 so book in advance and be ready to party. 

My advice? Shop around and if there doesn't seem to be an option you want, ask. Chances are the companies will cater. I'm not usually one for hiking but the views bad it worth every step.

L, L & A. Xx 

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