Thursday, 9 October 2014

Visiting Palolem off-season...

...is such a tease.

The beautiful beach is dotted with tourists, but only so many that you can still find a secluded spot that makes you feel like you're in your own little part of paradise. The bars and restaurants that line the seafront are starting open up, offering cheap local booze, the freshest of seafood and incredible views of the ocean. 

Not a bad view for our morning run.

The touristy shops that line the path down to the beach are fully stocked, and the hawkers are keen to sell you their wares to ensure some low-season sales. But, it's quiet. A little too quiet. The famed beach shake are starting to pop up along the shore, but most are under construction, and many of the bars are only just opening their doors. The nightlife is quiet, with 24hr cocktails available but the only real revellers being large groups of Israeli travellers or couples enjoying some alone time by the sea. 
This place is pregnant with possibility and we left after 2 nights vowing to return once it has started to get into the swing of things.
Not that we didn't keep ourselves 'busy'.

Fernandes was our favourite beach bar. Drinks were cheap (90rps g&t), whilst the seafood was crazy affordable and purchased fresh from the buckets bought in by the fishermen every evening. 


Fresh squid for 80p was a highlight, as was the stuffed mackerel (180rps). 


For the best coffee in town, visit Cafe Express on the corner of the mainstreet. You'll pay a pound a cup but it's worth it. 


The iced shakes are amazing too (better with vodka) and the menu is vast; catering to everyone with Tibetan momos, Israeli hummus wraps and large Thali to share. The staff are lovely too, and you can tell by the excellent music choice that this place goes off peak-season. 

We stayed at Printnams bungalows for 800rps a night. I thought it was quite pricey for what it was out of season, but there were several travellers staying there so we stuck around for the company. Clean room, good sized bed with mosquito net and a hot shower, wifi in the most places; it did the job. 

Friends stayed in Geuros and felt it had more of a travellers vibe. Far cheaper too at 300rps a night; so that's worth checking out. 

We ate at Baba's little Italy, which is one of the many restaurants offering pay-per-kilo seafood on the Main Street. Our kingfish tandoori was great, as was the vegetable sizzler which came out of the kitchen still smoking, served on a hot stone. It was pricey though, topping 500rps for the two of us. 



Goa is beautiful. It's lush green landscape and picturesque beaches make it a place to linger, and explore. 


We'll return next week to take it all in, but for now we head to Hampi on an overnight bus a little browner than when we arrived and excited for the sun-soaked days ahead.
L&A xx 

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